MY DAD & THE FUTURE FASHION ME

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Like I said earlier on Twitter, my dear Dad Mr. Robert "Roy" Rickey passed away last Friday. He wasn't ill, in fact he remembered to post my birthday card the night he died, before going to the pub (he was extremely sociable), and coming home to settle into his favourite chair and watch TV. He didn't see the morning, and died in his sleep. (I'll know why later today.) I'm OK with this. Not OK with the fact he was just 62; he would have turned 63 this Friday.

My feelings are up and down, but I've a handle on how grief operates having been through it before. One minute you can be laughing fondly about the person you have lost and then, as I did today, dissolve at the sight of a man walking down the street who, from a distance, could be him even when you KNOW it is not. It's irrational.

HOWEVER.  How can one reconcile grief with work and the work mindset? I've been mulling this over, and decided not to mull it over any more!  This - journalism, blogging, trending - is what I do, and I can no sooner disentangle my work mind for the matter at hand, as I can't not breathe. Not everyone could align themselves to this approach, but I know it is the Rickey Way and steeped in the DNA.  I will be digging up 'Dad Style Through the Years' in the next few days. He looked like a movie star when he was young.

Back to what has been on my work mind. Having digested the ENTIRE show season - my 300 page trend report is *humble cough* the most comprehensive of my career to date, and been declared a "triumph" by a colleague. I can safely report that the AW season represents a huge and positive change in the way we will be dressing. This change is what I am calling a return to "practical desires" (tm). Never have I wanted a camel jumper and pair of flared black trousers more than I do now.
So here, three long weeks after getting home from the shows, are the ten looks I just cannot get out of my head. These clothes represent the future fashion me. I will be dressing like this next season. In fact I think these ten outfits could see me through the entire winter -well, these and at least TEN jumpers, a Celine "classic" handbag, some yeti boots and a pair of kitten heels from Manolo. Thinking about winter is all too easy on this bleak, FREEZZZING day.

       FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE'S PERSONAL FASHION TOP TEN FOR AW 10

by Philosophy

by Celine (Pre-Collection)

by Bottega Veneta

 

    by Christopher Bailey for Burberry

 

by Dries Van Noten

by Julien Macdonald

                                                              by Behnaz Sarapfour

by Celine (Pre-Collection)

by Rochas

           by Peter Som (the coat of my dreams!)

Photo credits:

Catwalking.com

Celine

ARE PLUS SIZE MODELS BAD FOR OUR SELF-ESTEEM?!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Just when we thought we might finally get some respite from the great weight debate...

Porenza schouler AW10

These are just a small selection of the size related stories I've spotted over the past couple of weeks:

Marc Jacobs insists he didn't use 'curvier' models in his AW10 show as a means to comment on the industry's ultra-skinny fixation: 'It wasn't a statement on age, and it wasn't a statement about body shape'. (WWD)

Michael Kors vows not to employ models under the age of 16, Natalia Vodianova admits to developing anorexia after the birth of her child, and Anna Wintour calls on designers to reverse the 'tyranny of sample sizes that barely fit a 13-year-old on the edge of puberty' (The Cut)

Twiggy claims all she ever wanted was 'A fairy godmother to make me look like Marilyn Monroe. I had no boobs, no hips, and I wanted them desperately' (AP)

Debenhams introduces size 16 mannequins in a bid to be more representative of the average woman (Belfast Telegraph)

Precious star Gabourey Sidibe is snubbed by Vogue insider: 'She's a joke in the fashion community. What she wore on the red carpet at the Academy Awards wasn't a dress, it was a tent' (NY Daily News)

 You may even have seen French ELLE's plus size spread featuring the lovely Tara Lynn:

The question is how do you feel about it? New research from Arizona State University suggests that images featuring 'normal sized' women (whatever that really means) can actually make us feel worse about ourselves. The study divided women into three groups based on their Body Mass Index - underweight (below 18.5), normal (18.5 - 25), and overweight (25-30). The participants were then asked to evaluate their feelings whilst looking at adverts featuring models who ranged from very thin to very heavy. 

The women classified as overweight were unhappy whether they were looking at tiny models or heavier ones, feeling uncomfortably similar to the latter and upsettingly distant from the former. In contrast the underweight participants were (smugly) comfortable whatever image they were viewing.

More surprising perhaps were the results from the group with normal BMIs. These participants were consumed with anxiety when faced with the larger models, imagining themselves to be much more similar to these women than they were in reality. For some reason we feel better about ourselves looking at unfathomably thin models! (Perhaps it's down to a classic case of numbness through over-exposure. Like when an English character pops up in an American film and for some reason they sound foreign). This is a thought that has been plaguing me for a while now. For years we imagined that if only editors would agree to feature more realistically sized models we would all feel a whole lot better about ourselves. Now our wish has finally been granted, only to leave us just as dissatisfied as before.

Whilst I fully agree that the fashion industry should shoulder some responsibility (in my opinion the model at the top of this post is painfully ill-looking and was probably an irresponsible hire) it irks me when people (my mother included) try to position it as a big bad machine sucking up perfectly ordinary happy girls and spitting them back out as anorexics. Anorexia is a vicious, all consuming, life ruining mental disorder. Friends of mine who are sufferers have much greater demons at work in their minds than simply the desire to look like waif-era Kate Moss. There will always be people thinner and more beautiful, but if we can cultivate better self-esteem and a foundation of worth based on intelligence, independence and morals we should be able to view magazines as, in the words of Karl Lagerfeld, 'dreams and illusions'. 

Maybe it's ok that magazines don't reflect reality. They represent escapism and perfection which serve to energise and inspire readers - hopefully in a positive way.

Pic credits: Catwalking.com, fashionfoiegras.com

THE BRITISH HIGHSTREET TARGETS BREAST CANCER, AND DOES A GREAT JOB!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

When I was 15 I used to wear my Fashion Targets Breast Cancer t-shirt relentlessly (I think I was inspired by the troops of celebs showing their support for the cause on GMTV. Bit embarrassing really!). It's amazing to think that the t-shirt campaign - originally started by Ralph Lauren in memory of a close friend - has been going strong since 1996 and has raised over 10.5 million for Breakthrough Breast Cancer.

This year the Wear Your Support campaign has revamped the t-shirt formula, collaborating with Topshop, M&S, River Island, Whistles, and mywardrobe.com amongst others, to produce black and white themed pieces.

Warehouse, £25

Olivia Rubin, mywardrobe.com, £257

Whsitles, £75

Kylie was the perfect choice to front the campaign (shot by Mario Testino). She looks beautiful doesn't she?

30% of all sales will go to Breakthrough Breast Cancer, and you can get yours in store or online today.

IT'S ALL ABOUT FASHION ILLUSTRATION

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Business of Fashion ran a story on Marco Santaniello recently - a t-shirt designing blogger for MaxMara, who creates Rubik's Cube inspired illustrations of fashion industry figures. His pictures are really putting a sunshiny spin on my grey Monday.

BryanBoy

Susie Bubble

Agyness Deyn

Anna Wintour

Become a fan of Marco on Facebook until his website gets up and running. Hmmmm.I wonder if he accepts commissions?

After going on about this or that fashion illustrator over the past few months I've finally decided to try it myself. I'm sure you've heard by now that the wonderful Sketchbook Magazine are throwing open the doors of their pop-up shop for a launch party tomorrow evening. Expect a multitude of talks and workshops from 31st - 19th April all held at number 10 Newburgh Street (W1). I've signed up for several events including a fashion illustration workshop taught by Gabriela Mot this Saturday at 12pm. Can't wait!

New issue of Sketchbook Mag

Click here for a list of all the goings on at the Sketchbook pop-up shop over the next few weeks, and be sure to reserve your place by emailing the team at rsvp@sketchbookmagazine.com. 

Pic credits: Marco Santaniello courtesy of businessoffashion.com

'INVESTMENT' - FASHION SPEAK FOR GUILT-FREE SHOPPING! YESSS!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

I love this time of year. Not just because of the milder weather and longer lighter days but because it's one of those rare periods when you don't have to feel guilty about shopping. A complete wardrobe overhaul can be justified as an 'investment' for the season ahead. I've got my eye on these little 'investments' this spring:

(From top left)

1. Laser cut waterfall fronted leather jacket, ASOS, £120. I got this last week and I can't tell you how zzzexy and expensive it looks. Leather is sticking around as a major trend for AW as well, which makes it an even better investment.
2. Floral print leggings by Hermione De Paula, Browns, £120. Since seeing her first stand alone show this season and meeting Hermione herself backstage I've become a big fan. The girl knows how to make a great print.
3. Lace up suede ankle boot, Urban Outfitters, £55. Urban is one of the first places I head to for shoes. These navy booties with cream laces are high on my wish list.
4. 'Bad Bunny' jumper, French Connection, £45. 'Bad Bunny' must be the best garment name ever! Why is the bunny bad I wonder? This looks like a nice low-key Sunday afternoon in the pub jumper to me.
5. Jersey maxi dress, Full Circle, £50. Forget floaty bohemian long-length dresses, it's all about the jersey maxi this season.
6. Blush summer dress, Hoss Intropia, £171. Gorgeous on-trend colour and a shape that works whatever the occasion. I intend to picnic in this little dress come summer. Check out the new Hoss Intropia store in Covent Garden for impeccable service and lots more demure dress options.
7. Backless mule, River Island, £44.99. I never thought I'd see the day I wanted another clog (the last time I wore one I was 9. It was patent lime green. Hot huh?) but lo, that day is here. I love this clog's Fashion Junior friendly price as well.
8. Cats eye sunglasses by Luella, ASOS, £68. Not quite as amazing as the Alexander Wang ones, but a pretty close second. Cats eye is obviously the shape of choice for the season. A good 'investment' wouldn't you agree?

CAN A CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FLAT BE AS DESIRABLE AS A 9 INCH HEEL?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Inside an unremarkable building in east London resides the Christian Louboutin press office. But as soon as you step through the door you notice red carpeted stairs. It's all looking a bit plusher. More like what you might expect from Louboutin.

It's the foot-wear label of most people's dreams, and when you picture a Louboutin shoe you probably picture a spindly sky-scraper heel don't you? I do. Or at least I did until I set eyes on the designer's AW10 collection and realised how much more he has to offer. 

The new look Louboutin heel

My favourite - thicker heel in electric blue

The Strictly Come Dancing shoe...Or is it Dancing On Ice? I don't know but you get the idea.

The unfathomably expensive shoe (each crystal / stud is attached by hand. Does that justify a price tag which is pushing £2000?)

 The trainers I might actually be able to work. (FYI they have the Louboutin trademark red sole)

The velvet lace-up - proving Christian Louboutin can make a flat as desirable as a 9 inch heel.

Right now on Fashionair.com you can watch a video of the man himself tap dancing. We LOVE Fashionair, and 'Dancer in a Daydream' might just be their best video yet. Click through for 5 minutes of pure joy!

BARBIE MANIA!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

This morning was one of those mornings where everything just comes together really neatly. I popped into the Mandi Lennard PR press day to have a ganders at AW10 Gareth Pugh and Roksanda Ilincic (both gorgeous up close) and emerged with a pair of Vivienne Westwood for Melissa shoes and a Barbie doll.

There are 12 dolls in the Barbie Basics range, and four different accessories packs to choose from. Meet Fashion Junior Barbie...

Long dark hair. Thick fringe...

Magazines, and (most importantly) a laptop. Make your own now on ASOS.

Next stop was the Christian Louboutin press day (more of which later) where I spied the Louboutin Barbie collection (complete with skinny ankles. In a recent interview the designer was quoted as saying 'I said to them that the one thing that could really give her perfection is to give a curve to her ankle. It's not like she's going to suffer for it'). The new red carpet Louboutin Barbie (in the booklet below) goes on sale soon.

Finally, on Mandi's recommendation, I headed to Selfridges to check out the Barbie pop-up store in the Wonder Room. Curator Sharmadean Reid (of WAH Nails), has assembled a cultural retrospective of black Barbie dolls. As a child of the 90s this was my favourite:

'Barbie and The Beat: In the wake of the 90s revival, this Barbie is very much a cultural icon of history in a time when black clothing and music started to become mainstream in America. The 1990s was a time for De La Soul, Fresh Prince of Bel Air, the movies of Spike Lee and Yo MTV Raps! and Barbie and the Beat reflects the adoption of black music and language into the homes of little girls everywhere. This Barbie looks very much like a Californian girl who could have had a cameo in Saved By The Bell' - Sharmadean Ried

There's also an entire wall of Barbies playing house:

(Check out Beyonce dancing up a storm on the telly)

These So In Style dolls (which are dressed in Rocawear by the way) were created by Stacey McBride-Irby - an African-American mother who wanted to make a collection of Barbie dolls that her daughters and community could relate to.

The dolls retail for £25 each and will hopefully be sold on Selfridges' new website at some point soon.

GRAZIA LEADS THE WAY WITH 'AUGMENTED REALITY' 3D ISSUE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Doesn't it feel as if we’re living in a world which bares more than a passing resemblance to Blade Runner / Minority Report / one of those other sci-fi films in which technology is disarmingly advanced? 2010 is apparently the future - even our magazines are coming to life for goodness’ sake!

Last summer Dazed and Confused stuck a pair of cardboard glasses to the cover (you know the kind - one red lens, one green lens. Seriously retro 3D eyewear) and proclaimed that inside lay ‘Fashion That Touches You!’

Nicola Formichetti styled Marios Schwab’s AW09 3D inspired collection, and the shoot jumped right off the page. But even that seems old hat compared to this week’s pioneering issue of Grazia - the 'walk-in talking' issue.

Hot on the heels of trendsetting POP Magazine, team Grazia wanted to be the first women's glossy to employ Augmented Reality - technology that allows the consumer to interact with virtual content. Readers can use their web-cam (or iPhone) to scan the black and white icons and bring the features to life.

Florence Welch serenades us, the Fashion Chart rotates, and the fashion editors give us the low down on their picks for the season ahead. We can even switch them and twirl them to our hearts delight with a mere movement of our hand - as I am with the lovely Charlie Miller below.

Very fun and original. Bravo Grazia, bravo!

The incredible Augmented Reality issue of POP is also out now.

 It's bound to be a collector's item in a few years time!

BRYANBOY BLOGS HIS WAY INTO US VOGUE?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

If ever there was a fashion blogger living the dream it's Bryan Boy. He's friends with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Marc Jacobs named a bag after him, and now the twittersphere is alight with speculation that the boy wonder might be joining team (US) Vogue. Possibly as part of the soon to be re-launched Vogue.com.

Whilst I was trying to get to the bottom of all the gossip following his visit to Conde Nast last week I came across BB's CV circa 2007:

Bryan, who was 25 at the time, explained that this was the first resume he had ever written: 'I've never submitted a resume to anyone, never been on a job interview, never had a company ID, and never dealt with an icky department called human resources'. Well what a first attempt!

Career Objective: I want a job where I'm surrounded by lots of clothes, accessories and cute guys. Also, I want a fantastic blonde female co-worker who will be my ultimate fag hag and we'll play dress-up and drink champagne whenever our boss is gone. (Ya gotta admire his honesty!)

Work Experience: N/A (Love it! - Work experience? Pa! Who the hell needs it)

Hobbies and Interests: Fashion, travel, entertainment, celebrities, models, weight-loss (I like the last two best)

Please tell me this is the resume you sent to Anna Wintour Bryan!

Seriously though, he's come a hell of a long way and we have our fingers crossed for him. It would be a victory for bloggers everywhere.

Images: Bryanboy.com

MANOLO BLAHNIK AT LARGE IN LIBERTY!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

I wanted a shot of Manolo and his niece Kristina, but the great man insisted I join the photo. Who was I to say no?

Photograph by Jenny Dyson

A fun morning for a Friday. After a visit to Spanish designer Emilio de la Morena to learn more about him and his work, (will post later) I popped along to Liberty to see Manolo Blahnik who was presiding over The Heritage Suite of the building with his Autumn/Winter range. Normally we would view his new collections at his store on Old Church Street. Today we were invited to Liberty.

What was going on?

"There is a reason we are here", confided a wonderfully chic, aristocratically tall young woman who turned out to be Kristina Blahnik, the daughter of Manolo's sister Evangeline. Another Blahnik! Who knew? This can only be a fabulous thing, as anyone who knows Manolo can testify.

Turns out Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye the charming CEO of Liberty came up to Manolo at Claridges last October to pay homage to the great shoe designer and they ended up talking shop. After a pot of English tea, it was decided - Manolo Blahnik was to open a pop-up shop in Liberty during London Fashion Week this coming September. Next thing Ed Burstell, the fashion director of Liberty got involved, and before anyone knew it Manolo Blahnik's pop-up shop was staying not a week as initially planned, but for a three and a half month run until Christmas!

Cue an explosion of creativity from Mr Blahnik who is only just recovering from a fall in snow and ice outside his Chelsea store in December. Manolo has (so far) designed three new Liberty prints. He has, he tells me, long been a fan of the Liberty print, they have been used in many a shoe interior. Manolo is also creating special products for the store, and his new collection includes several exclusive colourways, styles and fabrications that will be available only at Liberty. I have never seen Ed Burstell so excited about a collaboration. He was hopping from foot to foot with excitement when he came to view the range.

Ed Burstell with one of his favourite Manolo exclusives. "This is a shoe with two looks," said Kristina Blahnik "it's an elegant high heel and a fashion high heel." The extra piece is a Blahnik version of the shin protection worn by Polo players.

"There will be scarves, cushions, hats, notebooks, Christmas cards, shoes..." says Ed.

"I'm in trauma!" said Manolo to that, waving his hand (the one with the broken middle-finger) around in a mock one-fingered salute. "I am such an obsessive perfectionist. I will be sick with neuroses by September!"

Clearly, Manolo is loving EVERY minute of this. It shows in the collection too, which I was shown through by Kristina Blahnik, who is an architect; "I still have my own practise," she says, "however my focus is now to work with my Uncle. Structure and proportion is my thing.  Liberty is amazing again too, no?" I agree.

At this point Manolo spots a smidge of fluff on the Afghani rug and instructs someone/anyone to "get rid of it!" Luckily, the offending fluff is swiftly removed and everyone present finds this funny. So now onto my high-points of the new collection.

Most important to note is the new last. Manolo has crated a new shoe/heel shape. It is beautiful.

 

Sorry for the quality! The new curvy last is shown in  full angular explosion in Manolo's illustration in the background, but these are the real life shoes created using pleated suede in place of elastic.

The "Yeti" group. First created by Manolo for Marni a decade ago, and back by popular demand. On the right is the "Isidora" with a 5cm kitten heel. In the centre the "Tasava" 10cm high heel. In black on the left is the flat "Turisa" boot. Put them with what Karl did for Chanel, and we've nearly got a trend.  

Manolo can do elegant fashiony kitten heels better than anyone. 

 Must learn my camera settings more thoroughly. The building across the road is in focus, not the shoe. *mortified*

 

The Manolo take on Timberlands above this shot. This shot, the "Carrie" flats worn by SJP's Carrie when she married Big in SATC. I love them; they would make any girl feel like a princess.  Also the high heel versions behind. Check out the illustration of the pinks! Also the 1940s model Dovima (see the postcard photograph of her mid-shot) is the inspiration for this group of shoes.  

"I designed all this with fantasy in my mind," said Manolo. "You've got to keep the poetry alive. I don't want to lose the poetry."

Bad photography by FEAL.

HAS NET-A-PORTER MET ITS MATCH?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

There's a new e-tailer on the block, and this one might just be good enough to rival net-a-porter...

Well actually mytheresa.com isn't exactly new, having launched in 2006 as the online arm of the German bricks and mortar store, and while we have been journalistically aware of it, we haven't really given it much thought as it served mainland Europe direct, not the UK.  But, it's fair to say you probably haven't heard of it before. Whilst our European cousins have been buying from the website's selection of 120 high-end designers for years, this is the first time the company is directly targeting the UK market.
Well not for much longer. Mytheresa.com is known for its designer exclusives, and pre-fall sees the arrival of exclusive pieces from Burberry Prorsum, Proenza Schouler and Erdem to name a few. FEAL has managed to get hold of this never before seen sketch from the latter (you know how I love fashion illustration).

'For the Pre-fall collection with mytheresa.com I wanted everything to feel bright and dynamic, and also very special for their customer' - Erdem

The pre-fall capsule collections go online in June. Until then you can click through to shop these hot SS10 offerings:

Blazer by Richard Nicoll (£803), Trousers by Stella McCartney (£415), Necklace by Dries Van Noten (£768)

Dress by Christopher Kane (£1517)

 Dress and necklace by Lanvin (coming soon), boots by ACNE (£348)

http://www.mytheresa.com/