AW10 LONDON FASHION WEEK: MY TOP FIVE SHOWS

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

London Fashion Week was excellent. It was supremely well organised with solid shows delivering the creative and commercial. Burberry came out tops for me, with special praise going to Meadham Kirchhoff.  However, my main category of good show is here. These five collections gave me the jolt of the new that I need to keep engaged in the job. These designers are, for me, pushing fashion forward into this new decade.  

JOANNA SYKES

Joanna Sykes: Love!

PETER PILOTTO & CHISTOPHER DE VOS

Peter Pilotto: How chic?

Peter Pilotto: Excuse me while I swoon...

RICHARD NICOLL

Richard Nicoll: His new proportions threaten to make everything else look dated

AQUASCUTUM

 

Aquascutum: I love you Michael Herz! Cannot wait to wear Aquascutum this Autumn.. 

Aquascutum: Freja better not have the sample of these trousers. They are mine.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Christopher Kane: S&M florals go Scottish dancing. Where can I pre-order?

LONDON AW10:MY MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF LOVE THANG

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Been meaning to explain all week why Meadham Kirchhoff was one of my favourite shows. Well, here is why: it was radical, edgy and controversial - the fashion show equivalent of a rough diamond. One doesn't see that very often. There were enough ideas here for three shows, and lots of great trend-setting individual pieces. Why controversial? A lot of editors I know either didn't understand the show, found it too much to take in at once, or not edited and polished enough for the London runway.  To that I say - look beyond the veils!  (Many models were veiled thus obscuring their outfits. Not very helpful.)

Also consider that not everyone talented enough to deserve an on-schedule show at London Fashion Week has the bulging contacts book (or indeed demeanour) to ensure super-glossy stylists and A-list hair and make-up.  

Having said that, my position is a preview was granted so my understanding was assisted and advanced. I knew what to expect and could enjoy the show. Here's the designers to explain:

"It's ethnic, but with origins as far flung as Southern Spain and Southern India," said Edward Meadham. "That means you will have couture level embroideries on our gowns, and some naive tinsel embroideries on our shrunken cashmere knits. We are doing lots of red, lots of fuschia and lots of glitter. We are creating beautiful Oscar gowns, long tea dresses, and 3/4 dressses, there is also an element of animal print and our signature tailoring. On the runway it will all be mashed together with veils. We want to do as many pretty, amazing things as possible. It's a total stream of consciousness."

EDWARD MEADHAM

"Our previous seasons have been more quiet, sad," Ben Kirchhoff explained to me. "This more intimate, less melancholic than our previous shows. Our reaction to the mood of the time is to do total prettiness. We are making things that feel personal to us. We are hand-painting biker jackets - its a move on from when we would daub on our leather jackets as teenagers with Tipppex. We are also expanding what we do with a commercial line of jewellery with Erickson Beamon and we have a few other projects in the pipeline."

BEN KIRCHHOFF

With references as diverse as the Russian costumier Leon Bakst (above), Courtney Love (see here for when Courtney met Meadham Kirchhoff), bedecked Rajasthani women, and naive childhood memories of Christmas, its easy to see why some ideas got lost in translation.  My hope is that sales will ensue and the ideas germinated in this Autumn/Winter range will be expanded into a fully formed collection to satisfy their fans for Spring 2011.

Top of my list for AW10 is the "Hate is Love" biker jacket (top), the long red dress above, and a tinsel embroidered knit. The re-cut paper Christmas cracker hats by milliner Naser are fun too. Maybe they could make a killing selling designer Christmas hats to Harrods for fashiony Christmas crackers or something? That would certainly fund next season. Just a thought boys.... 

Mr. Meadham and Mr. Kirchhoff

On Meadham Kirchhoff's desk...

On their wall...

Their studio....

The wall of the studio...

Catwalk pictures: Chris Moore/Catwalking.com

Studio pictures: Fashion Editor at Large

MILAN AW10: PRADAS ANGEL HEART

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Miuccia Prada did a show that appealed to the heartland of her customer base. All part of this seasons trend for "real" fashion that chimes with the way we live now. Viewing the show today on Prada.com I realised I can be next season now as the bow front patent sandals on her runway are almost identical to a pair I bought from Miu Miu a decade ago.

This ongoing trend for "real" is worrying me. I need to put the word in speech marks because the way it is being bandied about in some quarters  - not Prada, her expression of fashion now is genuine - is about as real as a bunch of plastic flowers. Real is an attitude, not a trend. What is real for some, is not for others. The trick is knowing what is real for you. But, hey, if it serves to remind consumers that the mortgage is due, and to pay off the credit card, maybe it is not such a bad thing.

You should watch the Prada show, what it lacks in drama (these are lovely clothes, not a Beckett play) it makes up for with haunting music. Miuccia chose to use a large swathe of the soundtrack to the 1987 movie Angel Heart, a film that makes my all-time top five. The part she used is taken from the conclusion of the film when Johnny Favorite/Harry Angel (Mickey Rourke) realises he sold his soul to the devil and upon accepting who he really is (a dual-personality murderer), pays his debt with his life. Significant? I doubt it.

ANYWAY. Here are my personal top five Prada looks for AW10:

This shade of blue will become a trend for next season. 

 

Top-to-toe tonal dressing is gaining credence. I wear socks like this at the weekend.

Beautiful coat. The proportions of this outfit please my eye

Can't wait to wear....oh look..I've got those sandals already!

This looks fresh and new. Love the shiny black split skirt with the bow-belted camel top, and the double collar is oddly wonderful.

Picture credits: Chris Moore/Catwalking.com

UPDATE: WHEN COURTNEY LOVE MET MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF! UH-OH

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Excuse me while I get the smelling salts for Meadham Kirchhoff....

THIS STORY WAS UPDATED MARCH 3RD WITH NEW UNPLEASANT INFORMATION - THE ADDS ARE AT THE END.  

What you are looking at right here happened last night. It is the culmination of Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff's wildest fantasy.  

Courtney Love is looking unbelievably hot in a dress from the A/W10 Meadham Kirchhoff collection shown on the runway last week which was - you guessed it - inspired in part by Courtney. Furthermmore, she is standing in THEIR Dalston live/work studio while doing it!  I think we can all allow ourselves an on the spot jig for that.

How did Courtney Love get there? Well, excuse me as I brush the imaginary lint from my lapel, it was thanks to a steady campaign conducted by myself with the crucial assistance of Emily Maddick the news editor of Grazia who is friends with the iconic woman in question. 

Three weeks ago when visiting Meadham Kirchhoff for a preview of their show, which turned out to be my favourite of London Fashion Week (will show you why later) they expressed their love and admiration of Courtney, and said it would be their dying wish to see her at their show and/or wearing their clothes.

Following this inspiring encounter my fastest finger was dialling Emily who was immediately on the case planting this info with CL.  We forwarded her an inviation to their show, and the designers sent her a small gift. She didn't attend the show as busy gigging; but when Italian Vogue booked her for a shoot, Courtney knew where she wanted to borrow some clothes: Meadham Kirchhoff!  

"We lent her five pieces from the AW10 collection, and gave her a dress from last season. It was a joyous moment," said Ben last night.

 

They pinched themselves hard, and she was still there!

March 3: EDWARD MEADHAM ADMITTED YESTERDAY THAT HE THINKS HE WILL NEVER SEE THE CLOTHES HE LENT TO COURTNEY LOVE AGAIN. THEY WERE HIS FAVOURITE PIECES FROM THE NEW COLLECTION - AND MS LOVE HAS SEEMINGLY ASSUMED OWNERSHIP. 

MESSAGE TO COURTNEY LOVE: SORT IT! The pieces you have "borrowed" are samples that should be on display to potential buyers in a showroom in Paris right now and for rest of the week. The designers need them to keep their business going! If you can remember what it is like to struggle for your art you will return them honey.

BE STILL MY BURBERRY HEART

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

My coat

My American friend called the Burberry show Tuesday a "fashion-gasm". That about sums it up for me too, but not for the same reasons. The show was a triumph. It created need where there was none. It set trends and was dramatically staged with celebrities and plenty of pomp. Of particular note was the outerwear and leather accessories. Burberry is as Burberry does.  

Shearling aviator jacket,  olive parka coat, navy cadet peacoat. Thigh-high boot, buckled shearling ankle boot, ruched snakeskin thigh boot. These fashion jewels kept on coming and all excited desire.

Desire like this once created, demands to be sated and the sooner the better. Burberry knows this. So how to satisfy when the collection on show will not be on sale for six long months?  This brings me to the point of this post. My "fashion-gasm" if you like. Sarah Mower reported on Style.com yesterday that Burberry were to allow fans instant gratification by offering an online pre-order option for 80% of the collection.

It took me a minute to click through to Burberry and there were all the coats from the runway collection, shown on a model who moved and turned the coat or jacket seductively when clicked upon. Until 28th February she is there for you too, and she will tantalise you with that piece you want. It takes a few clicks to order and pay. Delivery in six to eight weeks. THAT is a fashion-gasm: a totally new way to access the nerve center that controls my shopping habits.  It is creating a new neural pathway in my brain as I write.

"Every step forward changes or challenges past mechanisms" one of my sage fashion critic friends emailed today. She is right. Still, I would very much like to buy the coat in the manner above, without touching it or trying it on. It costs £2,795.

Below is the jacket (£2,195) purchased yesterday by Rachael Proud the buyer in charge of designer collaborations at TopShop. She is a very happy girl today, as this jacket is fabulous and will suit her down to the ground. She followed the same path as me upon reading Mower's review on Style.com, except she sealed the deal. ""Their returns policy is as normal, so if I don't like it, I can return it," she said with audible relief. 

 

Rachael's jacket  

Kate Hudson's coat (and the dream coat of every fashion editor in the world) £5,495

During the show on Tuesday night I happened to see Kate Hudson mouth the words "I want all of it" to her neighbour. However according to my sources, she settled on this coat;  it reminds me of what she wore in 'Almost Famous.' My source at Burberry also tells me that this quilted jacket is the runaway best-seller so far. Interesting, no? If you want one the advice is to buy it one size too big. 

 

The most-clicked and bought pre-order jacket from Burberry's AW10 runway

    Kristen Stewart's coat

Back to the coat that started all this; as my finger hovered above the "click and buy" button a wise and practical friend of mine pulled me roughly to my senses. "What if you're over it before the Autumn kicks in?" And the clincher: "Isn't that half the budget for your wedding?" 

FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE BACK ON THE JOB

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

I'm back! Trust the Fashion Junior at Large kept you entertained and informed. It was all hands on deck at Grazia for London Fashion Week. My dear editor-in-chief Jane Bruton told me Grazia has the biggest fashion team of any magazine in Britain now, and we do!

Check out my top ten LFW moments in next weeks issue, and head to Grazia Daily to see me play the intrepid TV reporter chatting to the (usually pale and shaking) designers as they recover from their shows. Also look here for my reviews for The Daily, the brilliant daily fashion newspaper produced during the catwalk shows.

Coming up:
1. How Burberry is getting fashionistas all a quiver with their three day straight from the catwalk pre-order event
2. Why Meadham Kirchoff was my show of the week (despite half the audience "not getting it" and children crying when they first saw the models)
3. My top five shows
4. My top five trends
5. The new colours to get used to
6. Why Nicholas Kirkwood is superman and more!

Picture credit: Fashion Editor at Large of Erdem finale

FASHION JUNIOR'S LFW ROUND-UP

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

TRENDS TASTER:

 The conspicuous zip...

 

Burberry Prorsum

Bryce Aime

Anything sheeny, shiny and metallic...

 

Aquascutum

 

Matthew Williamson

The shearling jacket...

Julien Macdonald

Burberry Prorsum

FASHION WEEK FUEL:

Fashion week sponsors, Mercedes Benz, put these much appreciated hampers in the boot of their cars. I think everybody had one too many jelly babies. Thank god also for the coffee carts and the Topshop Hot Choc Stop in the courtyard at Somerset House.

FASHION EXTREMEISTS:

These two were causing quite the reaction all over town. Who are they? What do they do? I'm desperate to know!

COOLEST INVITATION:

Ashish's paper boat was my favourite.

MOST CONTROVERSIAL COLLECTION:

 

Fashion Editor at Large loved Meadham Kirchhoff's AW10 collection for its brave rawness. Others were not so keen.

BEAUTY TRENDS:

Firstly buns - every other person was rocking one. This was my effort.

Secondly red hair. At one show I counted 10 redheads in my immediate vicinity. Is Florence Welch to blame?

SECRETS OF THE FASHION WEEK VENUES:

Underneath all the gloss this week I saw flashes of London's history. Down in the under-belly of Somerset House - in the passages which host the Fashion East show - are graves. In the deeds of the building this area is referred to as 'The Dead House'. Creepy!

Vauxhall Fashion Scout moved to the Freemason's Hall this season, and the girls who write the VFS blog spotted this. On first impressions it's a painting of King Edward VII, but look at it in a different light and a second face appears.

LIFE SAVING PRODUCTS:

Fashion Editor at Large and I both use Lucas' Pawpaw Ointment, and it was a lifesaver in this week's icy weather. Forget 8 Hour Cream, this is the new cult product that should be in your handbag.

Pic Credits: Chris Moore / catwalking.com, thefashionscout.com

MC QUEENS FUNERAL IS TODAY

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R.I.P

In the end he just wanted a quiet and private ceremony for familiy and friends. So mindful that it is Alexander McQueens funeral today, this little blog post is a final wish that he rests in peace. Goodbye Lee, we loved you and will miss you always.

His friends tell me that one of his dying requests was that those who wish to pay their respects to him donate to one of the two charities closest to his heart. They are The Terence Higgins Trust and Battersea Dogs Home. 

The Alexander mcQueen business has confirmed there will be a show on March 9th.
I don't think there will be a dry eye in the house for that one.

WILLIAM TEMPEST COLLECTION IS RED CARPET WINNER

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Tempest's AW10 show was wonderfully commercial as always, and was apparently inspired by 'Islamic architecture and the legend of the Queen of Sheeba's journey to Israel'. 

The colour palette he showed was really chic - black with navy blue (why do people still list that combo as a fashion don't?), emerald, mint green and metallics. He also used lots of stone-washed silk, satin, and leather. It was a very red carpet friendly collection as you can see...

Initially there was some speculation that Victoria Beckham would turn up, but in the end we had to make do with Peaches.

HERMIONE DE PAULA'S AW10 COLLECTION EMERGED FROM ICE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

I attended a lot of the off schedule shows this season (whilst Fashion Editor at Large hit all the big names and will be posting on them asap) which means I spent a fair amount of time in the Freemason's Hall covering the Vauxhall Fashion Scout designers. You might recall I was particularly excited about their Merit Award winner Hermione de Paula.

Vauxhall Motors (the prime sponsors) and Fashion Scout are both keen supporters of emerging British fashion talent and innovative design, and their partnership contributed a great deal to Hermione's first successful solo show:

 

  

  

 

This collection was a departure from last season's soft rose coloured hues. It was graphic and monochrome with shapes which served to exaggerate the female form. 

After all the applause had subsided I managed to get a word with Hermione backstage:

E: This was you first solo show – how did it feel?

H: Really nerve wracking. I was more worried about the attendance than the actual show. You know when you throw a party and you panic that nobody will turn up?

E: What about the run up? Did anything go wrong or was it all smooth sailing?

H: It actually went well. This was the first time I’ve been super organised with my time. Having said that there was an episode with the snow, and then everyone got sick so I think I did the whole collection in a month and a half.

E: What was the inspiration for this collection?

H: Ice. I started off making my prints from ice sculptures. I borrowed a freezer from my local corner shop and it filled up my front room. I stuck half mannequins in it and sculpted around the form. Then I photographed the end product and used that as a starting point. In previous seasons I’ve used fresh flowers for my prints, this time I put the flowers in water and froze them, and created the wor4k from the result. 

E: What were the locks and keys about?

H: It was kind of based around the idea of chastity belts. I used skeleton logo keys – everything has a lock and key because each piece is precious

E: What’s the next step?

H: I’m really excited to be with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Who knows? David Koma and William Tempest have done really really well from this platform. We’ll have to see.

Hermione's SS10 collection is currently stocked at Browns Focus.

Photos: Catwalking.com