LAST NIGHTS FASHION AWARDS

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Me in my Meadham Kirchhoff

Last nights British Fashion awards was an intimate affair held at the Savoy hotel. The awards took place in the Savoy Theatre and we were all cooped up in our finery in tiny seats holding our plastic glasses of Champagne.

Things improved greatly once the awards got underway and Meadham Kirchhoff won best new emerging designer. Spent the rest of the evening feeling pleased with myself that I drummed up the guts to step away from my usual formal evening look - leather trousers, Celine jacket and spike-heeled Kirkwoods - to wear the magnificent red chiffon and lace dress from Meadham Kirchoff's Autumn Winter collection.

This look is a huge leap from my usual formal evening wear. I told my friend Justine Fairgrieve I was channelling an aristocratic woman fallen on hard times who has resurrected and dusted off her finery from various eras. She said she was too. I saw her across the room and she looked like Little Edie.
Jewels were important with this; the neckpiece is late 50s Dior costume jewellery.  

Anyway, wearing this outfit gave a sense of a whole new sartorial chapter opening up.   

Following the awards there was an elegant dinner in the Savoy proper, and it was exquisite from the table settings to the food and company. I was a guest of ASOS, and sat next to the young Canadian designer Thomas Tait. Interesting guy. Then it was a quick scoot with Henry Holland, Erdem, Richard Nicoll, Peter Pilotto, Christopher de Vos, Sarah Mower, Katie Hillier and Charlie Harrington for late night drinks at Soho House.

Fun times.

The most deserving winners on the night were
1. Phoebe Philo for Designer of the Year
2. Husam el Odeh for Emerging Accessories Designer
3. Patrick Grant of E. Tautz for Menswear
4. Mulberry for British Brand
5. Naomi Campbell for Outstanding Achievement
6. Last but NOT at all least the totally brilliant Ben Kirchhoff and Ed Meadham. I don't think they even know how great they are. Hopefully this award will go some way to make them believe it.
Find all the rest of the fun and frolics on Grazia Daily
Photo of me by the ever wonderful Mr Dave Bennett

LONDON AW10:MY MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF LOVE THANG

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Been meaning to explain all week why Meadham Kirchhoff was one of my favourite shows. Well, here is why: it was radical, edgy and controversial - the fashion show equivalent of a rough diamond. One doesn't see that very often. There were enough ideas here for three shows, and lots of great trend-setting individual pieces. Why controversial? A lot of editors I know either didn't understand the show, found it too much to take in at once, or not edited and polished enough for the London runway.  To that I say - look beyond the veils!  (Many models were veiled thus obscuring their outfits. Not very helpful.)

Also consider that not everyone talented enough to deserve an on-schedule show at London Fashion Week has the bulging contacts book (or indeed demeanour) to ensure super-glossy stylists and A-list hair and make-up.  

Having said that, my position is a preview was granted so my understanding was assisted and advanced. I knew what to expect and could enjoy the show. Here's the designers to explain:

"It's ethnic, but with origins as far flung as Southern Spain and Southern India," said Edward Meadham. "That means you will have couture level embroideries on our gowns, and some naive tinsel embroideries on our shrunken cashmere knits. We are doing lots of red, lots of fuschia and lots of glitter. We are creating beautiful Oscar gowns, long tea dresses, and 3/4 dressses, there is also an element of animal print and our signature tailoring. On the runway it will all be mashed together with veils. We want to do as many pretty, amazing things as possible. It's a total stream of consciousness."

EDWARD MEADHAM

"Our previous seasons have been more quiet, sad," Ben Kirchhoff explained to me. "This more intimate, less melancholic than our previous shows. Our reaction to the mood of the time is to do total prettiness. We are making things that feel personal to us. We are hand-painting biker jackets - its a move on from when we would daub on our leather jackets as teenagers with Tipppex. We are also expanding what we do with a commercial line of jewellery with Erickson Beamon and we have a few other projects in the pipeline."

BEN KIRCHHOFF

With references as diverse as the Russian costumier Leon Bakst (above), Courtney Love (see here for when Courtney met Meadham Kirchhoff), bedecked Rajasthani women, and naive childhood memories of Christmas, its easy to see why some ideas got lost in translation.  My hope is that sales will ensue and the ideas germinated in this Autumn/Winter range will be expanded into a fully formed collection to satisfy their fans for Spring 2011.

Top of my list for AW10 is the "Hate is Love" biker jacket (top), the long red dress above, and a tinsel embroidered knit. The re-cut paper Christmas cracker hats by milliner Naser are fun too. Maybe they could make a killing selling designer Christmas hats to Harrods for fashiony Christmas crackers or something? That would certainly fund next season. Just a thought boys.... 

Mr. Meadham and Mr. Kirchhoff

On Meadham Kirchhoff's desk...

On their wall...

Their studio....

The wall of the studio...

Catwalk pictures: Chris Moore/Catwalking.com

Studio pictures: Fashion Editor at Large

UPDATE: WHEN COURTNEY LOVE MET MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF! UH-OH

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Excuse me while I get the smelling salts for Meadham Kirchhoff....

THIS STORY WAS UPDATED MARCH 3RD WITH NEW UNPLEASANT INFORMATION - THE ADDS ARE AT THE END.  

What you are looking at right here happened last night. It is the culmination of Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff's wildest fantasy.  

Courtney Love is looking unbelievably hot in a dress from the A/W10 Meadham Kirchhoff collection shown on the runway last week which was - you guessed it - inspired in part by Courtney. Furthermmore, she is standing in THEIR Dalston live/work studio while doing it!  I think we can all allow ourselves an on the spot jig for that.

How did Courtney Love get there? Well, excuse me as I brush the imaginary lint from my lapel, it was thanks to a steady campaign conducted by myself with the crucial assistance of Emily Maddick the news editor of Grazia who is friends with the iconic woman in question. 

Three weeks ago when visiting Meadham Kirchhoff for a preview of their show, which turned out to be my favourite of London Fashion Week (will show you why later) they expressed their love and admiration of Courtney, and said it would be their dying wish to see her at their show and/or wearing their clothes.

Following this inspiring encounter my fastest finger was dialling Emily who was immediately on the case planting this info with CL.  We forwarded her an inviation to their show, and the designers sent her a small gift. She didn't attend the show as busy gigging; but when Italian Vogue booked her for a shoot, Courtney knew where she wanted to borrow some clothes: Meadham Kirchhoff!  

"We lent her five pieces from the AW10 collection, and gave her a dress from last season. It was a joyous moment," said Ben last night.

 

They pinched themselves hard, and she was still there!

March 3: EDWARD MEADHAM ADMITTED YESTERDAY THAT HE THINKS HE WILL NEVER SEE THE CLOTHES HE LENT TO COURTNEY LOVE AGAIN. THEY WERE HIS FAVOURITE PIECES FROM THE NEW COLLECTION - AND MS LOVE HAS SEEMINGLY ASSUMED OWNERSHIP. 

MESSAGE TO COURTNEY LOVE: SORT IT! The pieces you have "borrowed" are samples that should be on display to potential buyers in a showroom in Paris right now and for rest of the week. The designers need them to keep their business going! If you can remember what it is like to struggle for your art you will return them honey.

FASHION JUNIOR'S LFW ROUND-UP

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

TRENDS TASTER:

 The conspicuous zip...

 

Burberry Prorsum

Bryce Aime

Anything sheeny, shiny and metallic...

 

Aquascutum

 

Matthew Williamson

The shearling jacket...

Julien Macdonald

Burberry Prorsum

FASHION WEEK FUEL:

Fashion week sponsors, Mercedes Benz, put these much appreciated hampers in the boot of their cars. I think everybody had one too many jelly babies. Thank god also for the coffee carts and the Topshop Hot Choc Stop in the courtyard at Somerset House.

FASHION EXTREMEISTS:

These two were causing quite the reaction all over town. Who are they? What do they do? I'm desperate to know!

COOLEST INVITATION:

Ashish's paper boat was my favourite.

MOST CONTROVERSIAL COLLECTION:

 

Fashion Editor at Large loved Meadham Kirchhoff's AW10 collection for its brave rawness. Others were not so keen.

BEAUTY TRENDS:

Firstly buns - every other person was rocking one. This was my effort.

Secondly red hair. At one show I counted 10 redheads in my immediate vicinity. Is Florence Welch to blame?

SECRETS OF THE FASHION WEEK VENUES:

Underneath all the gloss this week I saw flashes of London's history. Down in the under-belly of Somerset House - in the passages which host the Fashion East show - are graves. In the deeds of the building this area is referred to as 'The Dead House'. Creepy!

Vauxhall Fashion Scout moved to the Freemason's Hall this season, and the girls who write the VFS blog spotted this. On first impressions it's a painting of King Edward VII, but look at it in a different light and a second face appears.

LIFE SAVING PRODUCTS:

Fashion Editor at Large and I both use Lucas' Pawpaw Ointment, and it was a lifesaver in this week's icy weather. Forget 8 Hour Cream, this is the new cult product that should be in your handbag.

Pic Credits: Chris Moore / catwalking.com, thefashionscout.com

LONDON FASHION WEEK MOOD BOARDS: # 1 MEADHAM KIRCHOFF

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

Meadham Kirchoff let me have a preview of the collection, but I can't tell you anything about it until Sunday when their show takes place, except that it is going to be the most beautiful thing they have done to date, and that the jewellery is extra special. If, like me, you are a fan of the fashion designers' mood-board, this is theirs.Until Sunday!