GO RICCARDO!?

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Mr Tisci

The job of head designer at Givenchy is, traditionally, the "in-waiting" job for when a post at Dior comes up. John Galliano was drafted into Dior from Givenchy in 1996, that was when Alexander McQueen got the job at Givenchy. Such a long time ago.....

If what I hear coming out from very well placed sources in Paris is true, today Riccardo Tisci, the 35 year old Saint Martins trained, Madonna-loving Italian Roman Catholic boy from Givenchy is to be placed as the creative director at Christian Dior.

Part of me hopes its not true; I love what Tisci has been doing at Givenchy since 2005, when he arrived a virtual unknown and showed Givenchy collections that revealed his preoccupation with gothic romanticism, crucifixes, and playful S&M references and cartooons. That he understands women, and creates a powerful femininity is a given: this is a gay Italian man, with eight - yes EIGHT - sisters. I remember interviewing him when he had just completed a wardrobe for Madonna's Sticky & Sweet tour in 2008 and he talked effusively about how his sisters inspired him, and how he was not frightened of feminine strength. He sure knows how to make a woman look strong. And how to make a man who wants to be a woman (his former assistant Leo is now a transgender supermodel named Lea T) look dignified and wonderful.

His Haute Couture presentation in January was incredible to behold in close-up, with workmanship blending the modern and ancient technique. In turn his couture provided, for me, the best Oscar dress on Cate Blanchett and Grammy dress on Florence Welch for 2011.  Tisci at Givenchy makes a lot more sense than Alber Elbaz. Alber is perfection itself at Lanvin. It would be a travesty to take him away from the house. Givenchy on the other hand can take another bout of reinvention. Maybe from my personal tip for the Dior job, a certain Mr Peter Copping.  

The rumour mill suggests we should expect an announcement after Miu Miu finishes this afternoon, in time for the nightly TV news, and just before tired editors hang up their BlackBerrrys, iPhones and laptops for a couple of days rest as the month-long fashion marathon comes to an end. 

I'm not betting on it. I reckon LVMH should let this guessing game last a bit longer. After all, there are legal requirements in French employment law that mean a lot more hoops needs to be jumped through before Galliano's contract is officially dissolved. With John Galliano away at a rehab facility (as I have heard from close sources) this story does have a while to run.

If John successfully argues (as I have also heard on the rumour mill) that he was mentally ill, and sick from his alcoholism and medications at the time of his anti-Semitic rant then he may have a legal case of his own.  

ANYWAY: this all adds up to wonderful fashion drama and gossip, exactly what any dyed in the wool fashionista such as myself and my colleagues were put on this earth to report on.

Watch this space!

INTENSELY CLOSE, IMPOSSIBLY BEAUTIFUL: GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy was having none of that fashion show malarkey this season. This designer marked his tenth couture collection for the house by casting aside the fashion show format altogether. Tongues wagged at first – financial trouble? Loss of confidence? Nope. He wants to show off.

Haute Couture is best viewed in close-up. How else to appreciate the 1000 hours of embroidery in a single gown? A fashion show can’t do this, as well Tisci knows, so his alternative was fabulously logical: face time with the clothes with all the detail you could want about the work. Voila – surely the future way to show couture?

Within an exquisite four room apartment at the historic Hotel d'Evreux on Place Vendome he showed ten looks suspended from sleek steel beams and beautifully day-lit to highlight the thousands of hours of work. These were clothes for hard-bodied women with millions in the bank, major events to attend and the confidence to wear either pure white, pale blush or blinging gold. No black in this collection!

Tisci loosely worked with two themes: the Mexican Day of the Dead tradition – and all its associated humorously macabre nick-nacks from skeletons to skulls and his favourite symbol, the crucifix – and the passions of Frida Kahlo.

I loved the humour of his bodysuit in blush tulle, sheer bar for the lace appliqué delicately mapping out a human skeleton. A 100% gold crystal studded gown Tisci developed from the dress he created for Lara Stone when she married David Walliams was also present. Most beautiful was the thickly fringed sculptural jackets – a Givenchy jacket is a thing of wonder. You don’t see shoes that appear to have been dipped in porcelain everyday, or sculptural rings resembling vertebrae made from solid silver and dipped in alabaster (below). Of course it was all utterly magnificent to behold.

The best factoid of the entire visit, though, was news that Riccardo Tisci’s former male PA, is now a female model called Lea T, who is currently much in demand on the high fashion circuit. Lea is in the group picture below that was the last stop on the Givenchy couture tour. Can you tell which one she is?

I guessed straightaway, only because she was the only model I didn't instantly recognise. This then made me think - what hope would a non-fashion person have picking the man among these amazonians?


To read more on Lea T's inspiring story click, here for a Guardian interview; here for a Huffington Post round-up on Lea T media, and here for a more in-depth story about living as a transexual, or with gender dysphoria. Also check out this website, if you want to take your studies further.

Photos: Fashion Editor at Large