THE WEEK IN FASHION: SEPTEMBER 5th-9th

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Before we get on with the business of the day, I just need to tell you my own fashion news highlight of the week. Last night, at Vogue's Fashion Night Out, I spied the delectable David Gandy as I walked along Bruton Street. Of course, the moment I spied him my, erm, journalistic instincts kicked in and I chased after him to ask, rather blatheringly, for a photo. He kindly obliged. I'm ashamed to admit that I'm still not entirely familiar with the machinations of the FashEd's camera so my image is, to put it mildly, terrible. But hopefully you can just make out an Adonis-y silhouette.

Sorry David, I'm no Mario Testino. Things can only get better.

 I didn't manage to get around too many FNO events as I was attending a talk about another aspect of my work with the FashEd. However, I did poke my head into Liberty for a yummy Mahiki cocktail and then went on to Stella McCartney (via Bond Street which was madness). A little while ago I blogged about the polka dot, and in particular Stella's dress. So, I was thrilled to play at being Natalia Vodianova as well as having a little dance at the disco. I also thought Nicoletta who works as a supervisor at the store looked amazing in her sheer polka dress so couldn't resist sharing this photo with you.

So those are some snippets my VFNO. Now onto other stories making the news this week- it's been busy!

Yesterday, John Galliano was found guilty of making anti-Semitic remarks. He received a fine of 6,000 euros which he will have to pay only if he re-offends. He must also pay a nominal 1 euro to each of the victims of his crime. It's a shame that this saga has dragged on for so long now but we hope that a line has been drawn which mean Galliano can concentrate on getting himself well.

Vogue Italia never fails to disappoint and this month's cover is no exception. We are completely intrigued by their transformation of Stella Tennant which must surely have involved some photoshopping, don't you think? Her impossibly cinched waist  and brutal piercings are said to have been inspired by artist Ethel Granger who claimed to create the smallest waist ever at a mere 13ins.

Ethel Granger (image from chicquero.com)

Following on from Love magazine's What Lies Beneath shoot, we bring news of a rather unlikely case of fashion photography plagiarism. This time Steven Meisel seems to have done two very simailar editorials for Vogue Italia and W magazine, both featuring Raquel Zimmermann. Having shot every cover of Vogue Italia since 1988, Meisel is no stranger to working with the team there however this was his first time working with W. Each shoot is a kind of before and after sequence, showing models in natural, off-duty poses and then in more stylised, made-up looks. While self-plagiarising doesn't really hurt anyone (apart from making you samey), the real issue here may be the effect the discovery has on Meisel's relationship with the two publications, especially given the contrasting relationships he has with both. The fact they both belong to the same publishing house, Conde Nast, entangles the issue further.

On the top is the Vogue Italia shoot, On the bottom is the W one (Image from telegraph..co.uk)

The unbelivably successful young blogger Tavi launched her new online magazine Rookie and from my older eye it looks very cute yet savvy. Tavi is fitting in her editor-in-chief role around teenage mundanities such as school. If any of our younger readers have a point of view on the subject we'd love to hear it! We also love Tavi's recent attempt to recreate the Hailee Steinfeld for Miu Miu ads. More pictures over on Style Rookie.

Tavi does Miu Miu (image from stylerookie.com)

This week, Lisa Armstrong has begun her tenure as Fashion Editor at The Telegraph. She kicked off in the best way possible with a fabulous Tom Ford interview ahead of his showcase on Sunday of London Fashion Week. We learn that Mr Ford is partial to an episode or two of The Only Way is Essex, his cultural highlight of the year. Lisa and Tom debate whether the British sensationalist ways go back to Punch (Tom) or Chaucer (Lisa) and he divulges that a woman at her best is slim and limber. There's a bit of sex in there too.

Tom Ford gives the middle finger to TOWIE naysayers. (image from fashionindie.com)

Another wonderful interview in The Telegraph, this time Kate Finnigan talking to Katie Grand. Images of fashion brilliance are conjured with Grand's tale of drinking in Azzedine Alaia's apartment with Grace Jones while watching films of the designer's show. 'I die I die' Jones apparently exclaims. And that's just another day in the life of Katie Grand. Cool. Read the interview for amazing insight into Katie's role in honing the collections of the likes of Marc Jacobs, Ungaro and Jonathan Saunders.

Katie Grand (Image from oystermag.co.uk)

 Yesterday, Topshop Chicago opened its doors with a little help from Phillip Green, his daughter Chloe and Miley Cyrus. So, quite a different vibe from April 2009's New York launch with Kate Moss as the star attraction. It has long been speculated that Chloe is set to take on a bigger role at Arcadia but we wonder if her position so firmly at her Father's side is an indicator of his anointing her as his successor. Of course, it will be a while before that actually happens so in the mean time Chloe will be kept busy with her forthcoming appearances on Made in Chelsea.  And while Miley Cyrus may be the 4th richest person under the age of 30 in the world, the choice to have her open the store sends an entirely different message from the previous Moss affiliations.We wonder if Miley and Chloe had a who's-richer-off, and more to the point, who would win?!

Miley is flanked by the Greens outside Topshop Chicago (image from Topshop)

Finally, I have mentioned the Diana Vreeland book,film and exhibitions which are coming up before but this week we'd like to give a special mention the film 'Diana Vreeland: The Eye has to Travel', which had its premiere at the Venice and Tulleride Film Festivals at the weekend. The FashEd proclaims herself to be Diana Vreeland's biggest fan and is already planning her trip to Venice to see the exhibition at Palazzo Fortuny.

Diana Vreeland ( image from brookspeters.com)

FW11 TREND #4: POLKA DOTS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Each season there is a graphic that feels right for now, even though it is a variation on a classic- think stars, stripes and spots. For FW11, you are going to find it hard to avoid polka dots, that's if you haven't succumbed already- this trend was a goer pretty much the moment the catwalk shows ended, but more of that later.

Marc Jacobs has been known to look to Yayoi Kusama for inspiration. Read all about the polka loving artist here, including her long-time residence in a mental institution

It is a joint effort from Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney which brings the humble spot print into hot fashion territory this season.  The polka might not be something new but the way we wear it for FW11 is different and perhaps initially surprising for those of us who first think of Minnie Mouse when we conjure the quintessential dotty dresser. Basically, it's all about sex. You could even see this as a subversive, sub-element of the fetish trend which we will talk about another day. 

Polka dots represent a charming, playful innocence but when are they done in rubber (as at Marc Jacobs and Louise Gray) or artfully placed atop a sheer base (as at Stella) then the effect really can be a bit mind boggling- is this supposed to be fun, or sexy, or (can we take this) BOTH? Sexy fun.

David Koma FW11

The flames of this trend have been fanned by the early celebrity endorsements of Stella McCartney's collection. Kate Winslet caused a stir wearing the black sheer polka cut out dress not long after the catwalk shows, as did Liv Tyler. The ad campaign stars Natalia Vodianova. By having the dress etched in our minds from such an early stage, the high street was bound to follow in order to satiate the predictable need to emulate. If you want to splash out on a less celeb-y, but no less in your face,  polka reference then I am rather in love with Louise Gray's thigh high rubber wellies, a bit fun, a bit kinky, so I would point you in their direction (available at Harvey Nichols)

Louise Gray FW11 (style.com)

Natalia Vodianova for Stella McCartney's campaign (stylerumor.com)

Marc Jacobs' peplums and pencil skirts are made in tweedy wools but then you stick a shiny polka on top and ta da, lady becomes fun. David Koma's furry appendages have a similar effect alongside the be-polkaed body con dresses. Stella also used giant paillettes to take the spot pattern a step further, they have a slight delicacy which means they sort of hover threateningly over their sheer underlayers, as if they might drop to a big reveal at any moment.

Marc Jacobs FW11 (catwalking.com)

Marc Jacobs FW11 (catwalking.com)

Stella McCartney FW11 (catwalking.com)

 WE RECOMMEND

BARGAIN DESIGNER DOTS: Balenciaga at Matches £272 (from £545)

Wolford at ASOS £33

Marc Jacobs at Net-a-Porter £825

Topshop £38.50

Warehouse £60

THE WEEK IN FASHION 22nd-26th AUGUST

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

As August draws to a gloomy close, we have our usual round-up of the fashion news stories which have caught our eye this week, what better way to kick off the long weekend? Enjoy!

 Queen of the Statement necklace and bug-eyed spectacles, Iris Apfel has already (unsurprisingly) been the subject of a very successful exhibition, 2005's 'Rara Avis (Rare Bird)' at the Met. Now the 90 year-old style maven is to be filmed by Albert Maysles for a documentary.  Maysles seems to have a soft spot for the more eccentric members of New York's high society; he is the filmmaker behind  the 1975 documentary 'Grey Gardens' which charts the reclusive existence of Jackie O's aunt and cousin, Big and Little Edie Beale. While that is a heart wrenching story of dysfunctional relationships and social exclusion, we hope (and know) that Maysles' Apfel film will be more uplifting- how could it not be when it stars our favourite- in her own words- 'geriatric starlet.'

Iris Apfel is not scared of a chunky piece of jewellery (Image from fifka.pinger.pl)

After the incredible success of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty at The Met in New York, speculation is building about how they can possibly follow it up. How long do they need to wait before doing another fashion exhibition without it just feeling like an anticlimax? Well it seems, that Miuccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli might be the answer. Before reading this news story I had never drawn the comparison between the two designers but they are actually a remarkably apt pairing, especially given their talent for making a subversive statement in their collections.
As a P.S to that Savage Beauty reference, don't forget to sign our #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome petition and use the hashtag on Twitter. The FashEd will have an update next week on the impact which the campaign has had. You will want to tune into that!

Schiaparelli in the 1930s. Image from (LisaWallerRogers.blogspot.com)

Miuccia Prada (Image from guestofaguest.com)

It is a truth universally acknowledged that Anna Wintour is the most powerful woman in fashion (isn't it?) but how about in the world? Well, according to Forbes she comes in at no.69, leaving the real superpower positions to the likes of German Chancellor Angela Merkel (no.1) and businesswoman and philanthropist Melinda Gates (no. 6). The world of fashion is still well represented with Gisele in 60th place, Andrea Jung, CEO at Avon, at 64, Diane Von Furstenberg at 91 and  Angela Ahrendts, CEO at Burberry at 58. Given that the fashion industry is one of the biggest employers of women around the world, we're glad to see some of the biggest players included in the power list.

Angela Ahrendts with Christopher Bailey. Under their supervision, Burberry became the first fashion company listed on the FTSE 100 (Image from thisislondon.co.uk)

The King of all collaborations will be unveiled on 22nd September with the Gala Opening of 'Ocean's Kingdom', a ballet composed by Sir Paul McCartney with costumes designed by Stella. Ballet is one of my favourite ways to pass an evening but the prospect of a production with music and costumes from two absolute heroes of their fields, neither of whom have ever forayed into ballet before, promises to be fresh and exciting and a must-see. Hopefully there'll be a big screen showing in London.

Paul with Stella and James on their farm, photographed by Linda McCartney (image from meetmeatmikes.blogspot.com)

Finally, Westfield Stratford City opens on 13th September, just in time for a pre-fashion week spree. Given that the space is in the heart of East London, it seems only right that the area's young talent and creativity is on show. Enter the Studio East panel which includes Roland Mouret and Erin O'Connor. They have chosen up-and-coming artists and designers to contribute to  creating a unique Westfield vibe. One of the winners is Julian J Smith who has designed glamorous uniforms for lucky Westfield staff- no dodgy fleeces or polyester monstrosities for them! Also look out for art installations and renewable energy initiatives from the Studio  East crew.

Julian J Smith's design for Westfield uniforms.

DADDY, I STOLE YOUR COAT

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

For FW11, there is something about a big coat. A coat so big that it tends to look like you might have borrowed it from your Dad/ Boyfriend/ Brother. In fact, a good way to try the look is to do exactly that. If you're anything like me, then before now you may have taken comfort in the 'big coat' look anyway. I can confess to stealing the jacket from my male companions' backs on numerous occasions as we stumble home in the chilly, small hours. Now there is a bona fide fashion excuse for this habit after Stella McCartney, Miu Miu, Michael Kors and others included blatantly oversized jackets in their collections.

Dolce and Gabbana

Michael Kors

 This look can be styled in two ways- take it straight down the masculine road by adding tailored trousers or make it feminine and sexy with a pretty dress, or nothing, underneath your big jacket. Take note of the silhouette at Stella and Miu Miu; the shoulders are wide and sloping (a significant departure from the pointy Balmain power shoulder) but the sleeves finish just above the wrist, rather than hanging down several inches below the fingers as an actual man jacket might. This flash of the slimmest part of the arm is extremely flattering and stops the jacket from bulking you up too much. Miu Miu's little coat also nips in under the bum, making for an altogether neater line than the flapping circumference of your Dad's suit jacket. Given that this male/female thing is set to be a key aspect of how we dress in the coming months, we would like to suggest that the single item which can transport you between the two looks most successfully will be the oversized coat.

Stella McCartney

Miu Miu

Kirsten Dunst wears the Stella look in her shoot for the current issue of Elle UK. Her pose pretty much sums up the appeal of these big coats- while the sheer dress beneath is revealing and daring, any vulnerability this evokes can be immediately countered by hugging the big blazer close. The ultimate comfort fashion.

Kirsten Dunst in ELLE UK's September issue.

These baggy, sculptural shapes are not confined to the coat. If you fall for the oversized look, then a tunic would be a great way to explore further. Raf Simons' version at Jil Sander is particularly desirable.

Jil Sander

WE RECOMMEND:

This tweed version by D&G is available now at My-Wardrobe for £565

We love the deep pockets and buttery colours of this Winter coat. £180, Coming Soon at Full Circle

£60 from Warehouse

All catwalk images from catwalking.com

MC QUEEN IS DEAD, LONG LIVE MCQUEEN

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

Maybe it's because he was just a few years older than me and my friends. Maybe its because it shouldn't have happened. Maybe its because it is so sad that he was all alone at the end, and the futility of it all got to him. But myself, my social group and generation - we are all in grief. We are mourning the loss of Lee Alexander McQueen hard.  I fell asleep crying last night, and woke at four in the morning to see one of my close friends had left a message, I could hardly hear the words she said she was sobbing so much.

I didn't even know him properly. Just in passing. A nod when I saw him out in the gay girl clubs he so loved to frequent, we also shared some female friends. The last time I interviewed him, he turned the tables and ended up quizzing me on my personal life, remembering how, at a party in the late 90's he made me snog a girl who went on to be my girlfriend for five years. He cackled his head off at the memory, (he had the memory of an elephant). He looked happier then.

But he was always fighting his demons.

To my generation, Lee was one of us. A working class hero who made it to the top in a world populated by the middle-to-upper class bracket of folk; all the time wearing his heart on his sleeve. He didn't conform (well, there was the lipo and the veneers) and that was why we loved him.

Its a sad day when this world is too much for someone like him. Without him, fashion will never be the same again.

The British media have done a decent job in covering his death today, especially Lisa Armstrong at The Times and Jess Cartner-Morely at the Guardian, but a million stars should go to the exemplary coverage today by WWD.com. It will not be bettered. To that end I read though their reams of excellent copy and pulled out the memories and quotes that I think best honour his memory today.  Thank you WWD.

MEMORIES OF LEE

“The staggering thing about him was that he literally cut fabric off the bolt, folded it very perfectly on the floor, and asked for the scissors from his very attentive assistant. He would then think about it and attack the piece of fabric and hold it to the girl, and there was the dress or the jacket in place. I hadn’t ever watched anyone work so fluently and so directly. These carpets of ideas that he just laid out on my floor, and he spoke for two hours without drawing breath. He just floored you every time.”
Camilla Nickerson, (the fashion stylist and senior contributing fashion editor at W magazine)

“He spotted me across Leicester Square. I was wearing his Givenchy kimono with the dragon on the back. We became good friends. He was the kindest, shiest, funniest person. And when the chips were down, he was there. He wasn’t a flake. You could count on him. I will miss him. He was an aristocrat in the true sense of the word. He had a natural grace, natural patrician instincts. And he had so much compassion and a big heart. We would go to his studio and do simple things — sit and have a cup of tea — and just have fun. We’d play around like kids and imagine that we were in a world that wasn’t so cynical and money-driven.”
Daphne Guinness - friend and long-time Alexander McQueen client

Franco Pené, chairman of Gibò, one of the first supporters and producers of McQueen, described him as “adorable, extremely sensitive and very fragile,” remembering how he would “cry for his troubled love stories” or his deep affection for dogs, for example. “While he projected a bad-boy image earlier on in his career, he was very shy and had an incredible humanity,” said Pené. Pené also said he was “one of the most incredible, naturally creative minds, who could even sketch an entire collection in one day.”

"At the last McQueen show I went to, the fall 2004 collection, he came up to me and hugged me, and he was crying. He was very upset that I was leaving. He was shy, but once you got to know him he was very open and he had a great sense of humor — he used to make fun of people. He was also a very decent man: He was unbelievably nice to all of the seamstresses in the factory in Novara [Italy] who made his collection. He treated them well and they loved him. He was just a fabulous person.”
Domenico de Sole who was the president of PPR until 2004, and the man who orchestrated the buying of 51% of the McQueen brand in 2001. 

“I remember my first time I saw Alexander McQueen. He was in a tatty little apartment in the East End, so small you could hardly swing the proverbial cat. The whole floor was chaotic with bits of fabric and things lying around, bits of thread.…It looked like a kind of joke-Victorian vision of a fashion designer. My other great memory of him was after the show when he mooned, as we say in British English, showing his butt to the world at the end of the show. I went backstage and he was crying and he said, ‘I’ve blown it, I’ve blown it,’ meaning he’d made a mess of everything, and I said, ‘You haven’t. It was a wonderful show and you just have to pick up and go on.’ And he did.”
Suzy Menkes fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune

FASHION TRIBUTES TO LEE

“McQueen was daring, original, exciting. He shook up the establishment with his creativity and understood what it takes to be a great British ambassador for fashion. I admired him very much. He was a fashion revolutionary that, like me, made the journey from [Central] Saint Martins to Paris where he put his own unique mark on the industry. He will not be forgotten.”  John Galliano, artistic director Christian Dior


“A great talent has left us and we will miss him and everything that he has done for fashion.” - Jean Paul Gaultier

“[I] would like to pay tribute not only to the man, but also to a friend for whom he felt respect, admiration and affection.”
François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of PPR


“Lee was a fashion genius. I don’t say that lightly, and it is a total shock that I am referring to him in the past tense. He was a real friend. I will miss him as a mate, a peer, and as a true British talent, full of life and energy in everything he ever did.”
Stella McCartney


“Lee had a set of skills before he came on the course. He’d worked as a cutter in Italy for people like Romeo Gigli, and because he had those skills, he could distort the woman’s body and push the boundaries in cutting and tailoring. His seminal shows sent a shiver up the back of my spine and that doesn’t happen very often.”
Professor Louise Wilson, course director of the MA program at Central Saint Martins


“I think every designer’s dream is to have that talent, that vision and that integrity.”
Christopher Bailey


"At the time Issy was mocked for supporting a cab driver's son - and people were critical of Alexander because he was such a rebel - but he came through for Issy, and his success was his vindication. I hope they are together now."
Detmar Blow, Isabella's widower

 “He was a very strong person, but at the same time very weak. I learned from him a lot about the industry, the pressure, the creativity and being very true to yourself. He made London and made it really powerful. His presentations were not just about clothing. He made dreams come true and nightmares come true."
Miguel Adrover, friend and fellow designer.

“There is no way back for me now. I am going to take you on journeys you’ve never dreamed were possible.”

Lee Alexander McQueen

17 March 1969-

11 February 2010 
R.I.P

Images thanks to catwalking.com