FW11 TREND #4: POLKA DOTS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Each season there is a graphic that feels right for now, even though it is a variation on a classic- think stars, stripes and spots. For FW11, you are going to find it hard to avoid polka dots, that's if you haven't succumbed already- this trend was a goer pretty much the moment the catwalk shows ended, but more of that later.

Marc Jacobs has been known to look to Yayoi Kusama for inspiration. Read all about the polka loving artist here, including her long-time residence in a mental institution

It is a joint effort from Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney which brings the humble spot print into hot fashion territory this season.  The polka might not be something new but the way we wear it for FW11 is different and perhaps initially surprising for those of us who first think of Minnie Mouse when we conjure the quintessential dotty dresser. Basically, it's all about sex. You could even see this as a subversive, sub-element of the fetish trend which we will talk about another day. 

Polka dots represent a charming, playful innocence but when are they done in rubber (as at Marc Jacobs and Louise Gray) or artfully placed atop a sheer base (as at Stella) then the effect really can be a bit mind boggling- is this supposed to be fun, or sexy, or (can we take this) BOTH? Sexy fun.

David Koma FW11

The flames of this trend have been fanned by the early celebrity endorsements of Stella McCartney's collection. Kate Winslet caused a stir wearing the black sheer polka cut out dress not long after the catwalk shows, as did Liv Tyler. The ad campaign stars Natalia Vodianova. By having the dress etched in our minds from such an early stage, the high street was bound to follow in order to satiate the predictable need to emulate. If you want to splash out on a less celeb-y, but no less in your face,  polka reference then I am rather in love with Louise Gray's thigh high rubber wellies, a bit fun, a bit kinky, so I would point you in their direction (available at Harvey Nichols)

Louise Gray FW11 (style.com)

Natalia Vodianova for Stella McCartney's campaign (stylerumor.com)

Marc Jacobs' peplums and pencil skirts are made in tweedy wools but then you stick a shiny polka on top and ta da, lady becomes fun. David Koma's furry appendages have a similar effect alongside the be-polkaed body con dresses. Stella also used giant paillettes to take the spot pattern a step further, they have a slight delicacy which means they sort of hover threateningly over their sheer underlayers, as if they might drop to a big reveal at any moment.

Marc Jacobs FW11 (catwalking.com)

Marc Jacobs FW11 (catwalking.com)

Stella McCartney FW11 (catwalking.com)

 WE RECOMMEND

BARGAIN DESIGNER DOTS: Balenciaga at Matches £272 (from £545)

Wolford at ASOS £33

Marc Jacobs at Net-a-Porter £825

Topshop £38.50

Warehouse £60

DO YOU BELIEVE?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Twitter has been all a buzz today with the news that Marc Jacobs is to move to Dior, with Phoebe Philo taking up office at Louis Vuitton while continuing to design for Celine. We reported a few weeks ago that Marc may have been in talks to take over the Dior role but the addition of Philo's name is a new detail to mull over.

Some examples of the tweets fuelling the rumour mill:

'@Bryanboy: Imagine: Marc Jacobs at Christian Dior, Phoebe Philo at Louis Vuitton. Match made in heaven, yes? Can Marc do couture? That's the question.'

'@FashionFoieGras: Marc Jacobs for Dior and Phoebe Philo to fill his shoes at Louis Vuitton... That is today's prediction of the fashion musical chairs'

Phoebe Philo in The Gentlewoman (Image from www.rag-pony.com)

'@Vogue_London: Is Marc Jacobs really set to take over at Dior, and will Phoebe Philo be taking his place at @LouisVuitton_HQ? http://t.co/c1eLjmG'

'@JimShi809: #MarcJacobs said headed to #Dior, leaving #LouisVuitton open for Phoebe Philo (who'll also do Celine) & starting a major LVMH reshuffling.'

Where is Marc off too? Anywhere? (Image from fashionindie.com)

What are your thoughts, dear readers?

Would Phoebe Philo really take on the Louis Vuitton job when she has previously said that she only took on Celine because it meant she could remain and in London and juggle it with her two children? Would Marc tear himself away from all he has built up at Vuitton? What would Marc Jacobs' couture be like?

Can we really take these new rumours seriously? After all it's August and so everyone in Paris is en vacances. The FashEd's tip is that all will become clear in Septemeber once John Galliano has been sentenced. This is quite probably just another installment in this now long-running Dior job saga

Comment or tweet us @fashedatlarge.

THE WEEK IN FASHION 8/8-12/8

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Friday and welcome to our round-up of the week's fashion news. Our aim is to provide you with some relatively light relief from the horrid stories making the headlines this week.

First of all, can I remind you to support our campaign to #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome. Please sign the petition, comment on the blog about why you want to see Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty brought to London and use the hashtag to spread the word on Twitter.

    Petitions by iPetitions.com | Get Widget

Christian Louboutin have lost their case against YSL. The Judge decided that a colour cannot be monopolized as a trademark by a single brand, especially in an industry like fashion which depends on the freedom to use colour innovatively. Of course, most people who see a red-soled shoe now automatically associate this with the Louboutin brand. Thus we wonder if any designer now choosing to use a red sole will not confuse the customer anyway, or engender an immediate link with the Louboutin branding. Although you might expect to go a high street shop and buy red soled shoes to imitate the Louboutin look, what would be the motivation to buy a red soled YSL?

Balanciaga's red soles for men (Image from oo0oo.blogspot.com)

The fashion musical chairs saga continues. Now Marc Jacobs' name has been thrown in the hat as a possible contender for the Dior job. The mutterings began after Brazialian site Glamurama claimed that Jacobs has been in talks with Bernard Arnault for a while now and that he may be set to make a choice between his current position at Vuitton and the Dior job. Watch this space... (we wonder when we'll be able to stop saying that?!)

If he moves to Dior, he'll have to scrub that Louis body art right off! (Image from www.johnnyikon.com)

It was worth the wait. The pictures of Kate Moss' wedding are finally in and they are A.M.A.Z.I.N.G. If you haven't seen them for yourself yet then we suggest that you get a a cup of tea and set aside ten minutes to pore through the ultimate wedding album and read Hamish Bowles' report. According to the interview, it was watching 'My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding' which finally inspired Kate to say Yes to Jamie. We're hoping that the happy couple might make a cameo appearence in the next series!

Kate with her gaggle of flower girls. The new issue of American Vogue contains even more images

Kate and Jamie do Mick and Bianca (Images from Vogue.com)

The latest issue of LOVE magazine features an absolutely breathtaking shoot entitled 'What Lies Beneath', which is by far the highlight of the issue. The setting is a dark and eerie lake. The ensemble of models Lara Stone, Mariacarla Boscono, Saskia De Brauw, Kristen McMenamy, Paul Boche, Anais Pouliot, Jed Texas, Guinevere Van Seenus, Xiao Wen Ju and Angus Whitehead pose amphibiously in and around the water world styled by Katie Grand. It has come to our attention that the shoot bears more than a passing resemblance to art photograher Jeff Bark's WoodPecker series. While the LOVE shoot features more acid colours, the shoots share their use of cars and birds as props for their scantily clad models to entwine themselves around. Bark's photos feel more classical and ethereal but the similarities between the two shoots are undeniable. Not sure whether Katie, and the photographers Mert & Marcus intended it as an homage to Barks work, or not. As was asked on beautifully-invisible.com is this inspiration or plagiarism? We're plumping with the former.

LOVE magazine's editorial, shot by Mert and Marcus (Images from www.touchpuppet.com)

A shot from Jeff Bark's Woodpecker series. See more of his work at www.jeffbark.com (Image from dreamersofthedream.blogspot.com)

A car comparison-  the Mert and Marcus shot

Jeff Bark's use of the car/ woodland dichotomy (Image from spreadartculture.com)

Yesterday, the Fash Ed and I popped over to Soho to have a peek at Sarah and Lily Allen's new Lucy In Disguise shop on Lexington Street. Sarah and her Mum, Alison were working their socks off to get everything ready in time for today's opening. The shop has its own hair salon and private shopping area for a more exclusive vintage and Lucy In Disguise own-collection experience. We heartily recommend that you pop down for a browse. You can't miss it as the front is covered in gold sequins so shiny that you really don't need to be a magpie to be drawn in!

Sarah and Lily are embarking on a new era in their Lucy in Disguise project (Image from wardrobemag.wordpress.com)

 We have been highly entertained by the Twitter account @condeelevator this week which delivers delicious snippets from inside the offices of Conde Nast magazines, notably American Vogue. Highlights include-

'Vogue Asst &; AW in packed elevator. VA: Blah blah Duke & Duchess of Windsor-- AW: Cambridge. Duke & Duchess of CAMBRIDGE. VA: I'm sorry.'

'[silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] Summer Intern: "Was that...?" Intern #2: "Yeah" #annawintour'

[SILENCE] [SILENCE] [SILENCE]  (Image from www.matthewstasoff.com)

The account gained a whopping 66,400 followers after just 36 tweets and five days. However, we are devastated to report that the account is already no more. Despite the writer's clear amusement at the goings on in the Conde Nast New York elevator, the Tweeter still 'loves their job' and so decided to stop tweeting. Devastating yes, but understandable given that the powers at Conde Nast were on the hunt for -and closing in on - the culprit.

NEWS JUST IN: Kate Bosworth is starring in Vanessa Bruno's beautiful new campaign video. I'm not sure whether Kate, the clothes or the horses are more stunning. The FashEd is a big fan of director Stefanie di Gusto.

LØV from Vanessa Bruno on Vimeo.

Have wonderful weekends and don't forget to spread the word about Fashion Editor at Large's campaign to #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome.

Share the petition on your own websites, and pass it on.

THIS WEEK IN FASHION 30 MAY- 3 JUNE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large assisted by Bethan Holt.

Every Friday I'm going to share a digest of the fashiony stories and happennings that caught my attention during the week.  This week an historic appointment at the New York Times, big girls on the cover of Italian Vogue, Freja and Carine for Chanel and a revealing out-take from my Haider Ackermann interview for POP from last Spring... Oh and what has the International Herald Tribune writer Ruth La Ferla got against Marc Jacobs?
1. Vogue Italia uses THREE plus-size models on front cover....

Tara Lynn, Candice Huffine and Robyn Lawley


2. Tom Ford makes a documentary... And tells the story of Yves Saint Laurent's reaction to his collection for the label...(via the Huffingtonpost)

"When I started to get great press and business [at YSL] started to become successful, Yves became really quite hostile," recalled Ford, "and we had a little bit different taste. I have letters that he wrote to me about it, you know: 'In 13 minutes on the runway you have destroyed 40 years of my career.'"

3. Speaking of YSL, Pilati's Resort 2012 collection revives this delicious print from 1971. Divine...



The Poppy Print revived for 2011/12

4. The New York Times appoints its first ever female editor...   Jill Abramson, I salute you and look forward to your New York Times.

Jill Abramson is applauded by her new her team. I love this picture

5. Karl Lagerfeld wins Gordon Park Foundation creativity award and discusses the leaked pictures of his collaboration with Carine Roitfeld... Sexy!

Freja Beha Erichsen stars in the campaign, styled by Carine Roitfeld

The setting... A photo booth!

Chanel branches into masks?

6. Fascinating " interview " in the International Herald Tribune by Ruth La Ferla with Marc Jacobs ahead of his Lifetime Achievement Award at CFDAs on Monday...

Marc in  make-up from Francois Nars portrait book.

While Marc is smarting that his should be "a half-life time achievement award" there seems to be a darker force at work in her piece. In it La Ferla seems to be suggesting that Marc Jacobs has lost it. She alludes to store buyers from Bloomingdale's, Barneys New York and Nordstrom who "declined to comment on the designer's performance". She also quotes a blogger who says that overall the message of his clothes is "pretty banal". She also spoke to stylist Ms Tracy L Cox who works for SJP among others. Cox tells La Ferla that Marc's "clothes don't neccessarily translate on the red carpet." The pull quote of the article, published today, says "In a survey in 2009, his label was ranked 11th in perceived value and prestige. It plummeted to 25th last year."

7. Haider Ackermann adds even more intrigue to Dior rumours according to the LA Times...
"No announcement has come yet, but Ackermann, who is visiting Los Angeles for the first time this week for a special event with Saks Fifth Avenue, hinted that he is ready for a new challenge. "It would excite me," he said over green tea in the garden at the Chateau Marmont. "Sometimes you're drawing a collection, and something doesn't fit. I have more things to say and another house might help me with this."

We shared a glance at a long table of proper-looking ladies Champagne brunching under the porch, with their elegant handbags close at hand.

"I might dream of a woman more elegant and pure," Ackermann said. "Like those women over there?" I asked. He laughed. "Different, but yes."

Could Ackermann rival Galliano's finale outfits?

When I interviewed Ackermann 18 months ago for POP (SS11 edition, read here),  I asked him if - after turning down the job offer to be Creative Director of Maison Martin Margiela - he might consider working for another house in the future. His answer to me was "My tree is too young still. I need to have strong roots for me to be able to divide myself. Step by step. It took me 6.5 years to be standing here and that is good. Lets not rush into things. I don’t want to be at a house just for three years. If I do something I want longevity. I like longevity. I like intimacy." Hmm. So if he takes on a Dior or a Givenchy shaped job he will be doing it for the very long term....

8. Stefano Pilati tells Womens Wear Daily that he is scared of bloggers... oh and on another note I had no idea Kate Moss and Stefano were such great mates....surely with John Galliano in recovery he is a shoo-in to design her wedding gown? Or maybe her dress IS what Galliano is doing in recovery?

Kate and Stefano at the Etam fashion show in January. These two are always hanging out. (image from Zimbio.com)

“I pay attention to all of them and I’m very scared,” Pilati told WWD. “Because who are these people? I would like to sit with them and ask them where they come from. because it’s very easy to judge from your bed. At the same time, I’m fascinated. I’m fascinated by this era and this medium. If people are thirsty about fashion, I like to have a dialogue, but now it’s not a two-way dialogue: it’s a one-way dialogue.”

9. Can't wait to read American Vogue European Editor-at-Large Hamish Bowles' autobiography... (via avenueinsider.com)

Bowles looking dapper in McQueen

10. Gisele is gearing up to be the first supermodel to become a US Dollar  billionaire... according to Forbes magazine Gisele Bundchen, 30, the model from Horizontina in Southern Brazil is a money machine. Last year alone she sold 250 million flip-flops in Brazil earning her in the region of £150 million, thats before we look at her beauty business (currently for sale), her growing property portfolio and various other product deals.

by Mario Testino

11. ASOS announces massive profits... crazy to think that in ten years ASOS has gone from being worth £12.3 million (October 2001) to £1.6 billion (June 2011) (Source: Ft.com.)

12. Erdem (who looked as dapper as ever at last nights Royal College of Art fashion show) has produced a stunning resort collection for 2012 inspired by Hitchcock and Romy Schneider... I would wear this look in a heartbeat.

Erdem continues to work with lace and beautiful prints in this new offering

13. Alexa Chung unveils yet another fashion collaboration... am I alone in thinking Alexa has got her fingers in one too many fashion pies?

14. Alistair Guy's new portraits of some of fashion's most influential people includes this one by one of my best friends, Yasmin Sewell. She look beautiful, as always.

Yasmin Sewell

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/
http://www.fashionologie.com/
http://www.guardian.co.uk/
http://www.nymag.com/
http://www.latimes.com/
http://www.fashionista.com/
http://www.vogue.co.uk/
http://www.howtozipyourfly.com/

THE TRENDS A/W 2011 - FETISH

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Part of what I've been up to since returning from the shows is deciding on the trends for Autumn/Winter. As regular readers know trend-hunting is a geeky hobby of mine as well as being proper work. Making educated guesses is fun -and after viewing hundreds of shows, visiting dozens of showrooms and taking in every fashion retailer press day in Britain I reckon I've got it sussed. I will share my predictions on the way we will wear next season over the next week. There is something for everyone, and I mean everyone!

1. MEET THE FETISHISTA

Gaga smoking for Mugler by Nicola Formichetti

Visible underwear, lots of shiny stuff and boob handling at Mugler by Nicola Formichetti

Marc Jacobs

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci is decidedly pervy.  Yes, an outfit comprising a cat-woman riding hat, Bettie Page bra and thigh revealing sheer netting over thigh socks CAN be feted as fashion.  

Ferragamo takes the simple Helmut Newton photography approach to the fetish trend, using a chignon, smear of red lipstick and judicious leather slicing to full dominatrix effect.

How to fetishize the fetish of Louis Vuitton at Louis Vuitton

Its dirty, its leathery, and it plays peek-a-boo with thighs and torsos, and ooo there was a lot of it about at the shows. Marc Jacobs topped and tailed the Autumn/Winter 2011 show season with fetishistic displays using Latex and strictly tailored ponyskin at his Marc Jacobs collection, and The Night Porter style peaked military caps, handcuff bangles and severe sheer at Vuitton.

The nearest most fashion lovers get to kinkiness is leather trousers. So it remains to be seen if they will take to Latex pencil skirts, rubber knee high boots, corset belts and control underwear as outerwear. 

Personally I liked Lena at Les Chiffoniers stretch leather dress with peekaboo net underskirt.

TOMORROW:  MOD GIRL

MODEL CRUSH #1: MEET SUZIE BIRD

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

This is Suzie Bird.

Now and again a model pierces my consciousness as "one who will go far, fast". Suzie Bird is one such. The five-foot-eleven-inch tall Parisian turned 21 this month and so far is enjoying a great catwalk season chalking up Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, DVF and Band of Outsiders. It wasn't until I researched into the name behind the imperiously elegant little face that I realised she is also the be-chignoned beanpole who stars in the Celine Pre-Fall lookbook. I expect we will see a lot more of Suzie Bird in the next few weeks.

Polaroids

At Marc Jacobs

At DVF

For Celine Pre-Fall

Photos: Style.com