FW11 TRENDING: THE FORTIES

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The Miu Miu advertising campaign has primed you, hopefully. Because today, we would like to focus your trend-observant eyes on the 1940s- a decade when war ravaged the world and women came into their own, making significant contributions to the war effort whilst going to great lengths to maintain all the glamour they could; painting tea on legs to look like stockings and scrupulously collecting ration coupons so they could buy a single item of clothing.

Stocking painting (image from www.25dollarvintage.blogspot.com)

Miu Miu was the greatest proponent of the 40s look for FW11

 It was not just at off-duty moments that women were mindful of keeping up appearances. The legendary land girls toiled the fields of Britain, taking over from men who were needed to fight. Despite their demanding occupations, this was nevertheless a time when a girl could not really get away with 'bed hair' or wearing her boyfriend's shirt and denim cut-offs. Grooming was not a choice.

They may have been tending their flock, but not before the headscarf was perfectly knotted and uniform belted up (Image from www.telegraph.co.uk)

And it was not all compromise. There is abundant evidence of megawatt film star glamour, even when the war was still close to home. Vera Lynn was the sweetheart of the British Armed Forces, bringing welcome comfort and eye candy to the serving soldiers who she entertained throughout the war.

Vera Lynn wearing classic forties voluminous top with embellishment- this wouldn't look the same without the pristine make-up and set hair (Image from www.dailymail.co.uk)

 Our ultimate icon for this era is Hedy Lamarr- film star and scientist extraordinaire. Not only did Lemarr star in many of the most successful films of the 1940s, such as Samson and Deliliah, but she is also widely remembered as helping to develop a frequency hopping communication system which is still used as a basis for modern wi-fi technology. So you see, Hedy is really the epitome of the 1940s spirit which this season is capturing; power, capability, independence with a double dose of glamour.

Divine Hedy

Star Quality

Dolce and Gabbana AW11- Take note of stars as a microtrend- not confined to the 40s but if it's good enough for Coco (Chanel was a fan) AND Hedy then... 

There are two ways to go with the 1940s look for AW11. Firstly, there is total commitment. Essentially this involves adopting not just the clothing but also the beauty routine. Full adoption means not leaving the house without a full face of make-up, including the most scarlett lips and blackest flicks of eyeliner, and painstakingly styled hair.

Richard Avedon's 1948 image of Elise Daniels in Paris, in a turban.

Badgley Mischka AW11 show was full of high-glamour 30s and 40s looks. Hair and make-up was high maintainance and true to the period, but ultimately this is the boring way to do it.

Miu Miu and Jonathan Saunders did it exactly the right way by achieving that finest of balances; we can tell that their looks are 1940s but the models do not look like they are at 1940s fancy dress party. Miu Miu referenced the victory waves of 1940s hair but by keeping it straight and leaving make-up to a bare minimum, this had 2011 written all over it. Jonathan Saunders did the same but his use of colour, mostly 1940s but with the occasional flash of bright or incongruous print made his pieces apt for the Land Girls of Now.

Miu Miu's take on the tea dress is a key AW11 piece.

The belted waist and utilitarian blazer are 1940s. Prints and fresh face give the AW11 update.

Louis Vuitton

 We think you would do well to invest in two key pieces for a 1940s look. The tea dress is a classic anyway which you may quite possibly already own and certainly if you don't, will be useful for seasons to come. A turban will see you through the 70s references of the coming months as well as being a gentle reference to 40s glamour. Oh, and add a brooch if you get bored! Blazers, belts, midi skirts, palazzo pants and stacked heels are also key elements.
WE RECOMMEND:

A tea dress from Warehouse £38

Turban: £12 from ASOS

Catwalk Images from www.catwalking.com

THE WEEK IN FASHION 13TH JUNE-17TH JUNE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large
Additional research by Bethan Holt

Here's our weekly round up of the goings on in fash-land over the past five days. While most of the fashion press have been obsessing over the resort collections (more on those to come!) these were the news stories that caught our eye this week.We kick off, fittingly, with a quote from the High Priestess herself...

1. Famously anti-tech Anna Wintour gave the perfect five word acceptance speech for Vogue's People's Voice Award at the Webbys: "Sometimes geeks can be chic." Got it in five, Anna - and come on, like we didn't know that already!


2. The fashion hackers have struck again, and it's Beyonce (in kinky Vuitton) vs. Christina  Aguilera (in, well, not a lot) on the leaked covers of this month's W magazine

 3. Alexandra Shulman stepped into the ring for the racism in fashion debate, following the recent racism related lawsuits involving Naomi Campbell and Cadbury and Rihanna and Gucci. In response to Liz Jones' claim that the industry is 'inherently racist', Shulman pointed out: "There have always been black players on the scene — at the moment look at the stylist Edward Enninful, make-up artist Pat McGrath and [models] Jourdan Dunn, Liya Kebede and Joan Smalls, who are at the top of the tree."The Vogue Editor also hinted that she has two black cover stars lined up for future issues - Michelle O, perhaps?

4. It has been a week for campaign releases, as Tom Ford poses with Lara Stone in his new make up shots
...

 

Lara and Tom try to out 'good face' each other in the Tom Ford makeup campaign

5. ...while Angelina Jolie poses in Cambodia (birthplace of her son, Maddox) for Vuitton 's core values campaign

6. Jess Cartner-Morley declares this the summer of intentional bad taste fashion, all thanks to a Prada banana

Prada SS11, and the banana skirt that started it all...

7. Aggy is back in the business! Everyone's favourite leggy blonde Agyness Deyn has re-signed with her old agency, Select Model Management, and is hoping to stage a comeback. Shouldn't be too tricky when you look like this...

Aggy shot by Tim Walker for the May issue of Vogue. Beautiful!

8. What  has Stefano Pilati been up to while his mate Kate was on her hen weekend on the Isle of Wight? Designing costumes for a new Harold Pinter production, of course! With Kristen Scott Thomas taking the lead in The Betrayal, this will be one dramatic fashion statement.

9. You thought the V&A Vivienne Westwood exhibition had covered it all? Well, now her iconic shoe designs have an exhibition all of their own

 The Gillie shoe, most notorious for bring Naomi down to earth with a bump!

10. Mulberry have had a very, very good year, reporting a 69% increase in revenue.Those cute woodland creatures from their last show are obviously hiding some savvy business sense..

 Mulberry Resort 2012. They don't just do handbags, y'know. It's all about the doggy RTW.

11. A very dapper Jonathan Saunders deservedly picked up Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards - even though the win took him by surprise, having just been "texting Chris Kane saying 'Sam Cam's wearing your dress, you're definitely going to win it!'"

 Designer of the Year Jonathan Saunders picks up his SFA in a trendy teal tie.

11. Following the news that K-Mid's wedding dress is going to go on show at Buckingham Palace, across the pond, the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame have included Gaga's infamous Meat Dress in their 'Women who Rock' exhibit. Thankfully, the meat has been preserved so that the now well-past-it's-sell-by-date flesh dress won't pong out the exhibition! Tasty.

 

12. Stella Tennant presented the Devonshire Cup at Royal Ascot (she's related to the historic English family). On Ladies Day she was sporting a brilliant trilby avec taxidermy birds, designed, of course, by Stephen Jones. Only Stella and Stephen could make dead birds look this good! 

Stella Tennant and Stephen Jones during the design process for Ascot's chic-est headgear. Photographed by Robert Fairer

13. And finally, over the past five days we have continued to be baffled and bewildered by Bip Ling's blog posts and Tweets. A choice example from @BipLing:

"YUPP having a great holidayyyyyyyy SHUVS AND FOREST ARE GREAT FUN YAR YAR YARRR LOVE ITTTT :-) BOOM BOOOM xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"

What?! Does anyone speak Bip and can help us out?!

And that, fashion fans, is the week that was...

Images: Catwalking, Vogue UK, Style.com, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, US Vogue.

WHAT A WEEK FOR BRITISH DESIGN!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Earlier in the week, we noticed two of our London based designers had been making an impact on the red carpets of international celebrity soirées, but little did we know that that was just a precursor to a brilliant week for British designers!
When Mr and Mrs Obama touched down on British soil on Tuesday, they kicked off a celebration of some of the our brightest and best fashion talent. Indeed, from the second Michelle O stepped off Air Force One in this dazzling (next season) Preen number, we knew this was the start of something big. (Have we mentioned how much we love her? Whether shaking her thang in a school hall to get kids dancing, or being the coolest First Lady in the history of time, Michelle Obama officially rocks our world.)

Michelle Obama in Preen AW11, looking sensational.

The original catwalk look Preen AW11

 Next up, SamCam continued to wave the flag for British fashion as she welcomed the Obamas to Number 10 in a beautiful - and borrowed - Peter Pilotto SS11 number (some of you will remember Paula Reed carrying out her royal fashion correspondent duty for the Beeb in this very same style). It's a fabulous dress, managing to be unusual and elegant at the same time.

Samantha Cameron in Peter Pilotto SS11

Peter Pilotto SS11

Of course, it wouldn't be a British fashion parade without the now uber-tanned K-Mid, freshly returned from her royal honeymoon and creating yet another high street mania in the 'Shola' dress from Reiss. No doubt the £175 number has already sold out, it looked great on her, with her waist still waspish post-wedding and the neutral colour set off her tan wonderfully.

K-Mid - Sorry, the Duchess of Cambridge, in the Reiss 'Shola' bandage dress. She's creating her own trend bubble. 

Back at Number 10, SamCam showed that you can accessorise Jonathan Saunders with salad tongs as she served up potato salad at a barbecue for servicemen. The dress was the perfect choice for an almost-summer sunny afternoon.

That's one garden party we would have liked to have been at. Pass the ketchup!

Jonathan Saunders SS11

Finally, it was only a matter of time before one of the First Ladies busted out some McQueen, and Michelle Obama chose the suitably dramatic setting of Oxford University to wear her Sarah Burton-designed outfit. 
















All in all, British designers did us proud this week, and it was fantastic to see their incredible designs being worn by suitably inspiring people.
Images: Daily Mail, Catwalking, Style.com, Getty

AW11 - BEHIND THE PRINTS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

It's safe to say that the AW11 collections in London were all about print. Our eyes were bombarded from every side with a rich feast of colour and shape blended into graphic patterns, and it was exciting to see so many designers embracing the allure of prints. We were transfixed, so decided to put our art-historian hat on to discover what the inspirational pieces which may have inspired the London designers.

Three stand-out collections deserve a closer look: the amazing prints at Erdem, Jonathan Saunders and Mary Katrantzou.

Erdem

We always have high expectations of Erdem's exquisite print designs, and this season their stunning beauty took on a new level of depth.

This statuesque column dress features an array of vibrant jewel tones; the velvet fabric adds to the rich depth of colour and gives the impression that different fabrics have somehow been burnt and fused together.

This trench - which no doubt be gracing many a Fashion Editor's back come next Fashion Week - has distinct echoes of Monet's Waterlillies series of paintings.

Blood red, stunning floral explosions and dappled colour. There is something about the drama and romanticism of these prints makes me think of Pre-Raphelite paintings.

Monet's Reflections of Clouds on the Water

Nymphs Finding The Head Of Orpheus by John William Waterhouse

La Belle Dames Sans Merci by John William Waterhouse

Jonathan Saunders

This collection was breathtaking in it's simple, yet beautiful elegance, and Saunders' amazing use of colour. The incredible repeated floral prints and bird imagery had strong similarities to the William Morris aesthetic of the late 1800s, but the colour palette ensured the looks felt contemporary.

The primary motifs were these intricate floral and botantical designs...

...interspersed with these blocky graphic shapes, which recall 1930s styles.

 

This lovely bird print was confirmation that birds will be EVERYWHERE by the time autumn comes around.

Prints upon prints upon prints! Inspired by nature, but made much more exciting with these bright hues!

William Morris ceramic tiles from the late 19th Century

The Strawberry Thief by William Morris

Snakeshead by William Morris (1867)

An original 1930s dress pattern, which echoes the shape and prints of Jonathan Saunders AW11

Mary Katrantzou

Quite possibly the best collection of the week, Mary's designs were spectacular, each print a complex hybrid of artistic references, including the superlative extravagance of Fabergé eggs, traditional Oriental designs and Russian Orthodoxy.

This painting-within-a-print is a beautiful example of ancient Japanese artistry.

The combination of graphic shapes and floral designs call to mind the decadent interiors of Russian cathedrals...

...while another Russian influence is clear to see: the gorgeous artwork of Fabergé eggs.

The Rose Trellis Fabergé egg, created in 1907 - a direct reference for Katrantzou's AW11 collection

The original Fabergé Imperial Clover egg, created in 1902 for the Tzar, Nicholas II, to give to his Tzarina. We'd settle for a piece from Mary Katrantzou AW11!

The interior of St Basil's Cathedral, with its beautiful floral designs

Traditional Japanese painting and kimono fabric, a distinct inspiration for the collection.

 

The scene has officially been set: prints will be at the forefront of fashion for AW11, and this time around they are intricate, bold and entirely beautiful.