DO YOU BELIEVE?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Twitter has been all a buzz today with the news that Marc Jacobs is to move to Dior, with Phoebe Philo taking up office at Louis Vuitton while continuing to design for Celine. We reported a few weeks ago that Marc may have been in talks to take over the Dior role but the addition of Philo's name is a new detail to mull over.

Some examples of the tweets fuelling the rumour mill:

'@Bryanboy: Imagine: Marc Jacobs at Christian Dior, Phoebe Philo at Louis Vuitton. Match made in heaven, yes? Can Marc do couture? That's the question.'

'@FashionFoieGras: Marc Jacobs for Dior and Phoebe Philo to fill his shoes at Louis Vuitton... That is today's prediction of the fashion musical chairs'

Phoebe Philo in The Gentlewoman (Image from www.rag-pony.com)

'@Vogue_London: Is Marc Jacobs really set to take over at Dior, and will Phoebe Philo be taking his place at @LouisVuitton_HQ? http://t.co/c1eLjmG'

'@JimShi809: #MarcJacobs said headed to #Dior, leaving #LouisVuitton open for Phoebe Philo (who'll also do Celine) & starting a major LVMH reshuffling.'

Where is Marc off too? Anywhere? (Image from fashionindie.com)

What are your thoughts, dear readers?

Would Phoebe Philo really take on the Louis Vuitton job when she has previously said that she only took on Celine because it meant she could remain and in London and juggle it with her two children? Would Marc tear himself away from all he has built up at Vuitton? What would Marc Jacobs' couture be like?

Can we really take these new rumours seriously? After all it's August and so everyone in Paris is en vacances. The FashEd's tip is that all will become clear in Septemeber once John Galliano has been sentenced. This is quite probably just another installment in this now long-running Dior job saga

Comment or tweet us @fashedatlarge.

FW11 TRENDING: THE FORTIES

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The Miu Miu advertising campaign has primed you, hopefully. Because today, we would like to focus your trend-observant eyes on the 1940s- a decade when war ravaged the world and women came into their own, making significant contributions to the war effort whilst going to great lengths to maintain all the glamour they could; painting tea on legs to look like stockings and scrupulously collecting ration coupons so they could buy a single item of clothing.

Stocking painting (image from www.25dollarvintage.blogspot.com)

Miu Miu was the greatest proponent of the 40s look for FW11

 It was not just at off-duty moments that women were mindful of keeping up appearances. The legendary land girls toiled the fields of Britain, taking over from men who were needed to fight. Despite their demanding occupations, this was nevertheless a time when a girl could not really get away with 'bed hair' or wearing her boyfriend's shirt and denim cut-offs. Grooming was not a choice.

They may have been tending their flock, but not before the headscarf was perfectly knotted and uniform belted up (Image from www.telegraph.co.uk)

And it was not all compromise. There is abundant evidence of megawatt film star glamour, even when the war was still close to home. Vera Lynn was the sweetheart of the British Armed Forces, bringing welcome comfort and eye candy to the serving soldiers who she entertained throughout the war.

Vera Lynn wearing classic forties voluminous top with embellishment- this wouldn't look the same without the pristine make-up and set hair (Image from www.dailymail.co.uk)

 Our ultimate icon for this era is Hedy Lamarr- film star and scientist extraordinaire. Not only did Lemarr star in many of the most successful films of the 1940s, such as Samson and Deliliah, but she is also widely remembered as helping to develop a frequency hopping communication system which is still used as a basis for modern wi-fi technology. So you see, Hedy is really the epitome of the 1940s spirit which this season is capturing; power, capability, independence with a double dose of glamour.

Divine Hedy

Star Quality

Dolce and Gabbana AW11- Take note of stars as a microtrend- not confined to the 40s but if it's good enough for Coco (Chanel was a fan) AND Hedy then... 

There are two ways to go with the 1940s look for AW11. Firstly, there is total commitment. Essentially this involves adopting not just the clothing but also the beauty routine. Full adoption means not leaving the house without a full face of make-up, including the most scarlett lips and blackest flicks of eyeliner, and painstakingly styled hair.

Richard Avedon's 1948 image of Elise Daniels in Paris, in a turban.

Badgley Mischka AW11 show was full of high-glamour 30s and 40s looks. Hair and make-up was high maintainance and true to the period, but ultimately this is the boring way to do it.

Miu Miu and Jonathan Saunders did it exactly the right way by achieving that finest of balances; we can tell that their looks are 1940s but the models do not look like they are at 1940s fancy dress party. Miu Miu referenced the victory waves of 1940s hair but by keeping it straight and leaving make-up to a bare minimum, this had 2011 written all over it. Jonathan Saunders did the same but his use of colour, mostly 1940s but with the occasional flash of bright or incongruous print made his pieces apt for the Land Girls of Now.

Miu Miu's take on the tea dress is a key AW11 piece.

The belted waist and utilitarian blazer are 1940s. Prints and fresh face give the AW11 update.

Louis Vuitton

 We think you would do well to invest in two key pieces for a 1940s look. The tea dress is a classic anyway which you may quite possibly already own and certainly if you don't, will be useful for seasons to come. A turban will see you through the 70s references of the coming months as well as being a gentle reference to 40s glamour. Oh, and add a brooch if you get bored! Blazers, belts, midi skirts, palazzo pants and stacked heels are also key elements.
WE RECOMMEND:

A tea dress from Warehouse £38

Turban: £12 from ASOS

Catwalk Images from www.catwalking.com

THE WEEK IN FASHION 13TH JUNE-17TH JUNE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large
Additional research by Bethan Holt

Here's our weekly round up of the goings on in fash-land over the past five days. While most of the fashion press have been obsessing over the resort collections (more on those to come!) these were the news stories that caught our eye this week.We kick off, fittingly, with a quote from the High Priestess herself...

1. Famously anti-tech Anna Wintour gave the perfect five word acceptance speech for Vogue's People's Voice Award at the Webbys: "Sometimes geeks can be chic." Got it in five, Anna - and come on, like we didn't know that already!


2. The fashion hackers have struck again, and it's Beyonce (in kinky Vuitton) vs. Christina  Aguilera (in, well, not a lot) on the leaked covers of this month's W magazine

 3. Alexandra Shulman stepped into the ring for the racism in fashion debate, following the recent racism related lawsuits involving Naomi Campbell and Cadbury and Rihanna and Gucci. In response to Liz Jones' claim that the industry is 'inherently racist', Shulman pointed out: "There have always been black players on the scene — at the moment look at the stylist Edward Enninful, make-up artist Pat McGrath and [models] Jourdan Dunn, Liya Kebede and Joan Smalls, who are at the top of the tree."The Vogue Editor also hinted that she has two black cover stars lined up for future issues - Michelle O, perhaps?

4. It has been a week for campaign releases, as Tom Ford poses with Lara Stone in his new make up shots
...

 

Lara and Tom try to out 'good face' each other in the Tom Ford makeup campaign

5. ...while Angelina Jolie poses in Cambodia (birthplace of her son, Maddox) for Vuitton 's core values campaign

6. Jess Cartner-Morley declares this the summer of intentional bad taste fashion, all thanks to a Prada banana

Prada SS11, and the banana skirt that started it all...

7. Aggy is back in the business! Everyone's favourite leggy blonde Agyness Deyn has re-signed with her old agency, Select Model Management, and is hoping to stage a comeback. Shouldn't be too tricky when you look like this...

Aggy shot by Tim Walker for the May issue of Vogue. Beautiful!

8. What  has Stefano Pilati been up to while his mate Kate was on her hen weekend on the Isle of Wight? Designing costumes for a new Harold Pinter production, of course! With Kristen Scott Thomas taking the lead in The Betrayal, this will be one dramatic fashion statement.

9. You thought the V&A Vivienne Westwood exhibition had covered it all? Well, now her iconic shoe designs have an exhibition all of their own

 The Gillie shoe, most notorious for bring Naomi down to earth with a bump!

10. Mulberry have had a very, very good year, reporting a 69% increase in revenue.Those cute woodland creatures from their last show are obviously hiding some savvy business sense..

 Mulberry Resort 2012. They don't just do handbags, y'know. It's all about the doggy RTW.

11. A very dapper Jonathan Saunders deservedly picked up Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards - even though the win took him by surprise, having just been "texting Chris Kane saying 'Sam Cam's wearing your dress, you're definitely going to win it!'"

 Designer of the Year Jonathan Saunders picks up his SFA in a trendy teal tie.

11. Following the news that K-Mid's wedding dress is going to go on show at Buckingham Palace, across the pond, the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame have included Gaga's infamous Meat Dress in their 'Women who Rock' exhibit. Thankfully, the meat has been preserved so that the now well-past-it's-sell-by-date flesh dress won't pong out the exhibition! Tasty.

 

12. Stella Tennant presented the Devonshire Cup at Royal Ascot (she's related to the historic English family). On Ladies Day she was sporting a brilliant trilby avec taxidermy birds, designed, of course, by Stephen Jones. Only Stella and Stephen could make dead birds look this good! 

Stella Tennant and Stephen Jones during the design process for Ascot's chic-est headgear. Photographed by Robert Fairer

13. And finally, over the past five days we have continued to be baffled and bewildered by Bip Ling's blog posts and Tweets. A choice example from @BipLing:

"YUPP having a great holidayyyyyyyy SHUVS AND FOREST ARE GREAT FUN YAR YAR YARRR LOVE ITTTT :-) BOOM BOOOM xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"

What?! Does anyone speak Bip and can help us out?!

And that, fashion fans, is the week that was...

Images: Catwalking, Vogue UK, Style.com, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, US Vogue.

THE TRENDS A/W 2011 - FETISH

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Part of what I've been up to since returning from the shows is deciding on the trends for Autumn/Winter. As regular readers know trend-hunting is a geeky hobby of mine as well as being proper work. Making educated guesses is fun -and after viewing hundreds of shows, visiting dozens of showrooms and taking in every fashion retailer press day in Britain I reckon I've got it sussed. I will share my predictions on the way we will wear next season over the next week. There is something for everyone, and I mean everyone!

1. MEET THE FETISHISTA

Gaga smoking for Mugler by Nicola Formichetti

Visible underwear, lots of shiny stuff and boob handling at Mugler by Nicola Formichetti

Marc Jacobs

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci is decidedly pervy.  Yes, an outfit comprising a cat-woman riding hat, Bettie Page bra and thigh revealing sheer netting over thigh socks CAN be feted as fashion.  

Ferragamo takes the simple Helmut Newton photography approach to the fetish trend, using a chignon, smear of red lipstick and judicious leather slicing to full dominatrix effect.

How to fetishize the fetish of Louis Vuitton at Louis Vuitton

Its dirty, its leathery, and it plays peek-a-boo with thighs and torsos, and ooo there was a lot of it about at the shows. Marc Jacobs topped and tailed the Autumn/Winter 2011 show season with fetishistic displays using Latex and strictly tailored ponyskin at his Marc Jacobs collection, and The Night Porter style peaked military caps, handcuff bangles and severe sheer at Vuitton.

The nearest most fashion lovers get to kinkiness is leather trousers. So it remains to be seen if they will take to Latex pencil skirts, rubber knee high boots, corset belts and control underwear as outerwear. 

Personally I liked Lena at Les Chiffoniers stretch leather dress with peekaboo net underskirt.

TOMORROW:  MOD GIRL

THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME?

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

My work as a fashion scribe has furnished me with more than a mere understanding of what is and what is not fashion, and why. Among many other things, working on three national newspapers and two fashion magazines over a 14 year period has given me an almost psychic ability to see the next big thing coming at me like a juggernaut.

When first beginning my biannual Big Analysis of the season following the catwalk shows (for new readers this is my total geek out - my very own Grand Theft Auto dark-room experience) there are obvious trends waving at me like red roses from a garden. Blooming obvious and pretty as hell that they are, these first-look trends are never, ever the whole story of a season. There are always the unexpected street trends, and the catwalk slow burners. Often these are the trends that relate to the shape of our clothes, and these matter long-term in the mechanics of how we put together an outfit.

Marc Jacobs is a designer who starts tipping the apple cart long before said apples in that cart tip over into popular culture/consumption. (Bear with me). This season he had a very definite message which he communicated like semaphore out to his audience, using each of the three collections he creatively directs.
Can you see it?  I've given you a clue already, so it should not be hard.

                                        MARC BY MARC JACOBS AW10

MARC JACOBS AW10

LOUIS VUITTON AW10

Of course, what I am talking about is the below knee hemline. I totally admire the way Marc made it the motif of each of his three collections without making them look at all samey. While Marc by Marc felt contemporary, Marc Jacobs echoed the 1920s and 30s and Louis Vuitton channelled the late 50s early 60s.

Banish thoughts that this length is frumpy.

Missoni AW10

Ferragamo AW10

There is something so elegant and new-looking to this hemline. The modest display of leg is both tantalisiing and supremely flattering.  We know Marc Jacobs is into it. Missoni and Ferragamo are dabbling in it. As for me, I love it, and happily it is already catching on amongst the fashion forward. (I didn't think I would have street-evidence of this trend for months, but I do). Yesterday while enjoying a totally inspirational afternoon at Brick Lane market I spotted quite a few girls wearing the new length, asked to photograph them and dropped to my knees to snap their hemlines prompting strange looks and general amusement. 

What do you think? Will you be wearing it? Thoughts please!

Photos:

Chris Moore/Catwalking.com

Melanie Rickey/Fashioneditoratlarge.com