DO YOU BELIEVE?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Twitter has been all a buzz today with the news that Marc Jacobs is to move to Dior, with Phoebe Philo taking up office at Louis Vuitton while continuing to design for Celine. We reported a few weeks ago that Marc may have been in talks to take over the Dior role but the addition of Philo's name is a new detail to mull over.

Some examples of the tweets fuelling the rumour mill:

'@Bryanboy: Imagine: Marc Jacobs at Christian Dior, Phoebe Philo at Louis Vuitton. Match made in heaven, yes? Can Marc do couture? That's the question.'

'@FashionFoieGras: Marc Jacobs for Dior and Phoebe Philo to fill his shoes at Louis Vuitton... That is today's prediction of the fashion musical chairs'

Phoebe Philo in The Gentlewoman (Image from www.rag-pony.com)

'@Vogue_London: Is Marc Jacobs really set to take over at Dior, and will Phoebe Philo be taking his place at @LouisVuitton_HQ? http://t.co/c1eLjmG'

'@JimShi809: #MarcJacobs said headed to #Dior, leaving #LouisVuitton open for Phoebe Philo (who'll also do Celine) & starting a major LVMH reshuffling.'

Where is Marc off too? Anywhere? (Image from fashionindie.com)

What are your thoughts, dear readers?

Would Phoebe Philo really take on the Louis Vuitton job when she has previously said that she only took on Celine because it meant she could remain and in London and juggle it with her two children? Would Marc tear himself away from all he has built up at Vuitton? What would Marc Jacobs' couture be like?

Can we really take these new rumours seriously? After all it's August and so everyone in Paris is en vacances. The FashEd's tip is that all will become clear in Septemeber once John Galliano has been sentenced. This is quite probably just another installment in this now long-running Dior job saga

Comment or tweet us @fashedatlarge.

THE WEEK IN FASHION 8/8-12/8

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Friday and welcome to our round-up of the week's fashion news. Our aim is to provide you with some relatively light relief from the horrid stories making the headlines this week.

First of all, can I remind you to support our campaign to #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome. Please sign the petition, comment on the blog about why you want to see Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty brought to London and use the hashtag to spread the word on Twitter.

    Petitions by iPetitions.com | Get Widget

Christian Louboutin have lost their case against YSL. The Judge decided that a colour cannot be monopolized as a trademark by a single brand, especially in an industry like fashion which depends on the freedom to use colour innovatively. Of course, most people who see a red-soled shoe now automatically associate this with the Louboutin brand. Thus we wonder if any designer now choosing to use a red sole will not confuse the customer anyway, or engender an immediate link with the Louboutin branding. Although you might expect to go a high street shop and buy red soled shoes to imitate the Louboutin look, what would be the motivation to buy a red soled YSL?

Balanciaga's red soles for men (Image from oo0oo.blogspot.com)

The fashion musical chairs saga continues. Now Marc Jacobs' name has been thrown in the hat as a possible contender for the Dior job. The mutterings began after Brazialian site Glamurama claimed that Jacobs has been in talks with Bernard Arnault for a while now and that he may be set to make a choice between his current position at Vuitton and the Dior job. Watch this space... (we wonder when we'll be able to stop saying that?!)

If he moves to Dior, he'll have to scrub that Louis body art right off! (Image from www.johnnyikon.com)

It was worth the wait. The pictures of Kate Moss' wedding are finally in and they are A.M.A.Z.I.N.G. If you haven't seen them for yourself yet then we suggest that you get a a cup of tea and set aside ten minutes to pore through the ultimate wedding album and read Hamish Bowles' report. According to the interview, it was watching 'My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding' which finally inspired Kate to say Yes to Jamie. We're hoping that the happy couple might make a cameo appearence in the next series!

Kate with her gaggle of flower girls. The new issue of American Vogue contains even more images

Kate and Jamie do Mick and Bianca (Images from Vogue.com)

The latest issue of LOVE magazine features an absolutely breathtaking shoot entitled 'What Lies Beneath', which is by far the highlight of the issue. The setting is a dark and eerie lake. The ensemble of models Lara Stone, Mariacarla Boscono, Saskia De Brauw, Kristen McMenamy, Paul Boche, Anais Pouliot, Jed Texas, Guinevere Van Seenus, Xiao Wen Ju and Angus Whitehead pose amphibiously in and around the water world styled by Katie Grand. It has come to our attention that the shoot bears more than a passing resemblance to art photograher Jeff Bark's WoodPecker series. While the LOVE shoot features more acid colours, the shoots share their use of cars and birds as props for their scantily clad models to entwine themselves around. Bark's photos feel more classical and ethereal but the similarities between the two shoots are undeniable. Not sure whether Katie, and the photographers Mert & Marcus intended it as an homage to Barks work, or not. As was asked on beautifully-invisible.com is this inspiration or plagiarism? We're plumping with the former.

LOVE magazine's editorial, shot by Mert and Marcus (Images from www.touchpuppet.com)

A shot from Jeff Bark's Woodpecker series. See more of his work at www.jeffbark.com (Image from dreamersofthedream.blogspot.com)

A car comparison-  the Mert and Marcus shot

Jeff Bark's use of the car/ woodland dichotomy (Image from spreadartculture.com)

Yesterday, the Fash Ed and I popped over to Soho to have a peek at Sarah and Lily Allen's new Lucy In Disguise shop on Lexington Street. Sarah and her Mum, Alison were working their socks off to get everything ready in time for today's opening. The shop has its own hair salon and private shopping area for a more exclusive vintage and Lucy In Disguise own-collection experience. We heartily recommend that you pop down for a browse. You can't miss it as the front is covered in gold sequins so shiny that you really don't need to be a magpie to be drawn in!

Sarah and Lily are embarking on a new era in their Lucy in Disguise project (Image from wardrobemag.wordpress.com)

 We have been highly entertained by the Twitter account @condeelevator this week which delivers delicious snippets from inside the offices of Conde Nast magazines, notably American Vogue. Highlights include-

'Vogue Asst &; AW in packed elevator. VA: Blah blah Duke & Duchess of Windsor-- AW: Cambridge. Duke & Duchess of CAMBRIDGE. VA: I'm sorry.'

'[silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] Summer Intern: "Was that...?" Intern #2: "Yeah" #annawintour'

[SILENCE] [SILENCE] [SILENCE]  (Image from www.matthewstasoff.com)

The account gained a whopping 66,400 followers after just 36 tweets and five days. However, we are devastated to report that the account is already no more. Despite the writer's clear amusement at the goings on in the Conde Nast New York elevator, the Tweeter still 'loves their job' and so decided to stop tweeting. Devastating yes, but understandable given that the powers at Conde Nast were on the hunt for -and closing in on - the culprit.

NEWS JUST IN: Kate Bosworth is starring in Vanessa Bruno's beautiful new campaign video. I'm not sure whether Kate, the clothes or the horses are more stunning. The FashEd is a big fan of director Stefanie di Gusto.

LØV from Vanessa Bruno on Vimeo.

Have wonderful weekends and don't forget to spread the word about Fashion Editor at Large's campaign to #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome.

Share the petition on your own websites, and pass it on.

CHRISTIAN DIOR'S NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR SHOULD BE....

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

John Galliano 

I didn't see this one coming: after over a decade at the helm John Galliano's reign as the Dauphin at Dior is over and done.

Paris - March 1, 2011
Today, in light of the deeply offensive statements and conduct by John Galliano in a video made public yesterday, Christian Dior has commenced termination proceedings against him. Sidney Toledano, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Christian Dior Couture, said: "I unequivocally condemn the statements made by John Galliano which are in total contradiction to the longstanding core values of Christian Dior". From the Huffington Post (via Racked)

While I am a long-time Galliano admirer, can't imagine a fashion industry without John Galliano, and feel compassion for the man, I ruefully agree that Dior chief Sidney Toledano had no choice but to fire him. It's so sad and a tragic way to go, but the bottom line is John totally brought it upon himself, albeit in the unconscious fug of intoxication in a bar in the Marais where he thought no-one knew him or cared what he was doing and saying. In another age maybe he might have been able to obfuscate events; in 2011 there's nowhere to hide from smartphone evidence (even if it wasn't from the night in question) streamed online by one of the worlds biggest media conglomerates. The hard truth leaves no room for public compassion - anti-Semitism is totally unaccepatble.

The ending at Dior also potentially sees his own eponymous line close its doors to him. It is a disastrous outcome, a gravity-defying fall from grace that is surely unprecedented in modern times.
It seems unfair to write all this about such an extraordinary talent. We all have our bad times - and to get through then in private and with dignity should be our right. But though it is unfair and unjust John Galliano doesn't have that option. He has been forced to face the music, but it could be a blessing in disguise. The extreme workload of the modern designer takes its toll on the most creative juices, and maybe a change is the best thing for Galliano and Dior in the long run.

But this is all only with hindsight. Until last Thursday I thought the business of Christian Dior was marching along buoyantly with Galliano at the creative helm. His creative work seemed  perfectly upstanding; the Spring/Summer 2011 collection was good. The multi-layered and coloured espadrille ribbon platform sandals from the collection have been massively influential.

Still. Transgression as a modus operandi succeeds on a creative level - but only if one doesn't let it contaminate the personal. Something Linda Grant writes on in todays Guardian online.

John Galliano is an enormous figure in fashion. Enormous. We in the fashion industry and beyond are in shock at the severity of the situation and will massively miss his design magic and  - on a totally superficial level - his famous catwalk exit at the end of each show. It seems silly to say but I feel lucky that I saw his very last show for Christian Dior in January. I hope he goes away somewhere to pull himself together with good friends close by and recover from  this. Someday he will be forgiven. Everyone deserves forgiveness and a second chance.

MOVING ON:
So who should Christian Dior be looking at? My first thoughts are the two Peters. Peter Copping, who heads up Nina Ricci, and Peter Dundas who heads up Emilio Pucci. Pucci is LVMH owned. Ricci is owned by the Puig group. In the same way that Bernard Arnault brought in Galliano to head up Dior from his position at Givenchy, it would be as simple for him to move Dundas into Dior. Or to hire Copping from Puig.

Peter Copping was key to the success of Marc Jacobs first years at Louis Vuitton, and his departure was keenly felt. In the last two years while Copping has been at Nina Ricci, he has brought a sweetness, elegance and purity to the house which is selling really well and bringing in legions of new young and not-so-young fans.

Copping, spookily, bears an almost striking resemblance to the real Christian Dior.

The real Christian Dior in 1953

Peter Copping of Nina Ricci

Peter Dundas of Emilio Pucci

Will update more later!

MY NEW CROWN PRINCE OF STREET STYLE BLOGGING

Tommy Ton of Jakandjil.com photographing Sally Singer of US Vogue in Paris

I have always been a street style watcher. A fashion stalker. A lot of my trend ideas come from seeing what people choose to wear, how they wear it and where they are when they're wearing it. It is a language all on its own. I was checking into The Sartorialist long before it became a cult blog, providing pithy captions for his subjects in my head, and then whenever I saw the man himself, Scott, at the shows or outside the Paris hotel he and I used to stay in (not together) I loved to watch how he blatantly sized men and women up on the street. He got away with it because he had a camera around his neck. Lucky.

Recently, I have added another fashion-stalker street-snapper to my love list. It's Tommy Ton from Jak & Jil  who has an eye for a picture that makes me think he is a beauty editor, accessories editor, fashion editor and art director all rolled into one. He loves an amazing shoe and bag, and has an eye for the more unusual composition that I find stimulating in my fashion head.  

This week in my mothership publication, the wonderful Grazia, I did a piece on Tommy Ton with a selection of pictures, but we could only fit in one. Because Tommy so kindly gave us several pictures to use, I thought it would be a shame to waste them, so I am showcasing them here.

What I like is that Tommy is capturing this Dior show as we journalists see it from the front row, complete with photographers, standing people, PR's, show producer's, discerning couture clients and of course the beautiful model in her Christian Dior Couture finery, in view.

When I tracked him down for Grazia I spent ten minutes outside the Chanel couture show on Rue Cambon asking hooded figures with cameras around their neck, are you Tommy Ton? Finally the real Tommy revealed himself.  And here is Tommy! How cute?

Tommy is wearing Alexander Wang boots

Later that day I interviewed him on the phone while he was trying to tap into some free wi-fi on the streets of Paris so he could send his pictures from the day to his blog. And he told me his story. He is 25 years old, and lives in a suburb of Toronto called Oakville with his Vietmamese parents. He started Jak & Jil four years ago, documenting the “not very glamorous” local Toronto nightlife because he was bored. "There wasn't much going on in Toronto." So he decided to spread his wings; "I wanted to take photos in the fashion capitals at their fashion weeks," he says. So that's what he did. I remember him in Paris a few years ago asking all us fashion editors if he could photograph our shoes. (He has a shoe fetish, how perfect and shiny are his Wang boots above?).  His perseverence has paid off; his talent has been spotted and he has been adopted by none other than Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld who has given him a page in this month's Paris Vogue. Not only Carine, in fact, but Anna Wintour too who is tapping him for the relaunch of Vogue.com later this spring. “At the Dior show I was sat behind Anna Wintour, and she turned to say “Hi” to me,” he says in amazement. He deserves the recognition. His pictures are beautifully composed, yet surprisingly he is not a trained photographer. “I just click away and hope...” he says, being modest. He definitely has the fashion eye; and he is in love with with fashion. “Fashion is everything to me; it’s all I care about” he says. Aaah.

I am anti-fur by trade, but even I have to admit that coat with those shoes on that bike with those glasses and the turban looks amazing.

THANKYOU SO MUCH TOMMY!
Melanie xx
Photos (not of Tommy Ton) are by Tommy Ton for http://www.jakandjil.com/
Tommy Ton photos by an as yet unnamed friend....