ISABEL MARANT: THE HOTNESS CONTINUES

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Isabel Marant is one of those designers who has kinda been blinkered to her success for years, but on purpose. She doesn't really want to know about the fashion world and all that. She knows a certain kind of girl/woman loves her clothes, but she keeps to herself, and is famously anti the Internet. The first online retailer she worked with was Net-a-Porter but she only joined them last year, ten years later than everyone else, and only because Natalie Massenet and Holli Rogers politely stalked her until she gave in.

This portrait comes from an excellent Australian fashion magazine called Russh

Now it seems the British public have politely stalked her and she has given in again - it was announced today that on a date in the near future Isabel Marant will open her first London boutique at 24 Bruton Street, on the same run of shops as Maison Martin Margiela and Stella McCartney. Cue a lot of happy Twitterers this morning, including me.

Though the reality is I could only afford one item a season, and I would have to really, really love and want to get a lot of wear from said item as Marant is not cheap. According to one report, the lease is costing £750,000 over 15 years, or £50 grand a year. Judging by my calculations that means Isabel Marant needs to sell 51.55 pairs of her new knee high fringed boots at £970 (see below, with the gorgeous pocahontas fringed dress that has a waiting list at Matchesfashion.com) to cover that off. That won't be hard, fashionistas are positively drooling over her latest Navajo inspired collection. A cosy patterned Navajo jumper is one of the most popular pieces (patterned knitwear is having a major high fashion resurgence for Autumn) and on waiting lists at Liberty (where stock goes on the shop floor, Thursday).

Tunic £1190 from www.matchesfashion.com (image via Catwalking.com)  

Isabel says things like "I don't belong to the generation of spending time on the internet,"  (she is 44) and "My collections remain very personal, even if there is a certain evolution within my design. I’m trying to cultivate the cosy, elegant attitude that is always mine." And the most interesting: "I'm quite anti-consumerist. Its difficult for me to be a designer in an industry I don't like."

THE boots, also available in cream

This introverted attitude clearly works for her, as Isabel is producing massively successful collections. In fact for about the tenth season in a row, Isabel has got a very desirable, trend-setting, sexy and and popular collection on her hands. This shot of french Vogue Editor-in-chief Emanuelle Alt wearing another suede fringed tunic from the AW11 collection popped up online yesterday. Lets not forget Alt used to be the brand's stylist and Alt's husband, Franck Durand, is the artistic director of the Marant company.

How divine does Alt look in this? (Via stylecaster.com)

So now onto the pieces that have got the fashion-lovers in a tizz of acquisition. Of course I can see exactly why, but I'm not going to get swept up in it all (she lied..)
THE ESSENTIAL MARANT/ AW11

Jumper £445 from Liberty- Arrives Thursday (Image via catwalking.com)

Necklace £485 at www.matchesfashion.com (Image via catwalking.com)

Feather tunic £265 from www.matchesfashion.com (Image via catwalking.com)

The Nelcie Dress £695 from www.matchesfashion.com. All arriving in September! (Image via catwalking.com)

SIGN THE PETITION #bringMcQueenexhibitionhome

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

This campiagn is starting to gain momentum now. Grazia magazine is supporting the petition on Grazia Daily, Katie Grand of LOVE Magazine, Lucy Yeomans of Harpers Bazaar and Susie Lau of Style Bubble are helping raise awareness so we can #bringMcQueenexhibitionhome. Please add this widget to your blogs, and tweet. This is the beginning of the campaign. It grows from here... we can make it happen.

Petitions by iPetitions.com | Get Widget

START YOUR GAGA LIST NOW!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large.

It may still be August, but our minds have firmly turned to Christmas this morning with the news that Lady Gaga is to take on Santa, opening her own Christmas pop-up shop, Gaga's Workshop, at Barney's in New York. And this is no half-hearted edit with Gaga's name simply stuck on as a marketing ploy. Oh no, the megastar and her close collaborator Nicola Formichetti have personally worked on a collection of gifts. These will be sold in the 'Gaga grotto' which will take over the entire fifth floor of the store. On top of that, there will be loads of products, from books to jewellery made from sweets, which Gaga will handpick for the space. Luckily for anyone not in NY, a selection of Gaga's gifts will be available online.

Ho Ho Ho, Ho Ho Ho (Image from www.LadyGaga.com)

 This wouldn't be a Haus of Gaga project without some extravagant exhibitionism. In that spirit, the store's windows will all be dedicated to the collaboration. Barney's CEO Mark Lee told WWD that “Where the windows have been the centerpiece in the past, they will be a huge important part of the story, but now, we also bring the windows to life upstairs with the shopping experience.” There has not yet been any confirmation of a performance of some kind but wouldn't it be brilliant to have the real Gaga singing Christmas carols as you went about your last minute present shopping?

So what might we expect to find in Gaga's festive space? Well, we're gunning for a new take on the infamous meat dress, perhaps a turkey version.  And some seasonally themed armpit hairdyes, green or red, or even gold. It would be great to see her supporting some young designers by getting their pieces into her space. She recently wore a rubber dress by Birmingham City University Fashion graduate Rebecca Short. Get on the case Nicola!

Gaga does graduate design, by Rebecca Short (Image from dailymail.co.uk)

The Gaga store might also sell gifts to inspire customers to explore their individuality. Lee told WWD that 'Holiday is about joy, sharing and inclusiveness, and to me, Gaga really represents all of that...Her platform is so much about positivity, individuality and universality in a very today way'' Might we see a Joe Calderone (Gaga's male alter-ego) wig or clothing collection?

Gaga as Joe, who has a bit of the Bob Dylan about him, don't you think? (Image from dailymail.co.uk)

Ultimately, we're sure that Lady Gaga will shock and surprise with her shop choices. There's no doubt that it will be THE retail experience of the Winter, with so much more than the products enticing customers in. We are pleased to hear that the Gaga Workshop will be donating 25% of its takings to charity. At the moment, we can only dream of what it might be like but if anyone can revolutionise Santa's grotto, and bring it, somehow, kicking and screaming into 2011, then the Lady for the task is Gaga.

VODACOM MISS TANZANIA TOP MODEL COMPETITION

Dress designed by Kiki

 I was one of the Judges

 Contestants of Miss Tanzania 2011

 Top 5

And the winner is Mwajabu

THE WEEK IN FASHION 8/8-12/8

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Friday and welcome to our round-up of the week's fashion news. Our aim is to provide you with some relatively light relief from the horrid stories making the headlines this week.

First of all, can I remind you to support our campaign to #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome. Please sign the petition, comment on the blog about why you want to see Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty brought to London and use the hashtag to spread the word on Twitter.

    Petitions by iPetitions.com | Get Widget

Christian Louboutin have lost their case against YSL. The Judge decided that a colour cannot be monopolized as a trademark by a single brand, especially in an industry like fashion which depends on the freedom to use colour innovatively. Of course, most people who see a red-soled shoe now automatically associate this with the Louboutin brand. Thus we wonder if any designer now choosing to use a red sole will not confuse the customer anyway, or engender an immediate link with the Louboutin branding. Although you might expect to go a high street shop and buy red soled shoes to imitate the Louboutin look, what would be the motivation to buy a red soled YSL?

Balanciaga's red soles for men (Image from oo0oo.blogspot.com)

The fashion musical chairs saga continues. Now Marc Jacobs' name has been thrown in the hat as a possible contender for the Dior job. The mutterings began after Brazialian site Glamurama claimed that Jacobs has been in talks with Bernard Arnault for a while now and that he may be set to make a choice between his current position at Vuitton and the Dior job. Watch this space... (we wonder when we'll be able to stop saying that?!)

If he moves to Dior, he'll have to scrub that Louis body art right off! (Image from www.johnnyikon.com)

It was worth the wait. The pictures of Kate Moss' wedding are finally in and they are A.M.A.Z.I.N.G. If you haven't seen them for yourself yet then we suggest that you get a a cup of tea and set aside ten minutes to pore through the ultimate wedding album and read Hamish Bowles' report. According to the interview, it was watching 'My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding' which finally inspired Kate to say Yes to Jamie. We're hoping that the happy couple might make a cameo appearence in the next series!

Kate with her gaggle of flower girls. The new issue of American Vogue contains even more images

Kate and Jamie do Mick and Bianca (Images from Vogue.com)

The latest issue of LOVE magazine features an absolutely breathtaking shoot entitled 'What Lies Beneath', which is by far the highlight of the issue. The setting is a dark and eerie lake. The ensemble of models Lara Stone, Mariacarla Boscono, Saskia De Brauw, Kristen McMenamy, Paul Boche, Anais Pouliot, Jed Texas, Guinevere Van Seenus, Xiao Wen Ju and Angus Whitehead pose amphibiously in and around the water world styled by Katie Grand. It has come to our attention that the shoot bears more than a passing resemblance to art photograher Jeff Bark's WoodPecker series. While the LOVE shoot features more acid colours, the shoots share their use of cars and birds as props for their scantily clad models to entwine themselves around. Bark's photos feel more classical and ethereal but the similarities between the two shoots are undeniable. Not sure whether Katie, and the photographers Mert & Marcus intended it as an homage to Barks work, or not. As was asked on beautifully-invisible.com is this inspiration or plagiarism? We're plumping with the former.

LOVE magazine's editorial, shot by Mert and Marcus (Images from www.touchpuppet.com)

A shot from Jeff Bark's Woodpecker series. See more of his work at www.jeffbark.com (Image from dreamersofthedream.blogspot.com)

A car comparison-  the Mert and Marcus shot

Jeff Bark's use of the car/ woodland dichotomy (Image from spreadartculture.com)

Yesterday, the Fash Ed and I popped over to Soho to have a peek at Sarah and Lily Allen's new Lucy In Disguise shop on Lexington Street. Sarah and her Mum, Alison were working their socks off to get everything ready in time for today's opening. The shop has its own hair salon and private shopping area for a more exclusive vintage and Lucy In Disguise own-collection experience. We heartily recommend that you pop down for a browse. You can't miss it as the front is covered in gold sequins so shiny that you really don't need to be a magpie to be drawn in!

Sarah and Lily are embarking on a new era in their Lucy in Disguise project (Image from wardrobemag.wordpress.com)

 We have been highly entertained by the Twitter account @condeelevator this week which delivers delicious snippets from inside the offices of Conde Nast magazines, notably American Vogue. Highlights include-

'Vogue Asst &; AW in packed elevator. VA: Blah blah Duke & Duchess of Windsor-- AW: Cambridge. Duke & Duchess of CAMBRIDGE. VA: I'm sorry.'

'[silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] [silence] Summer Intern: "Was that...?" Intern #2: "Yeah" #annawintour'

[SILENCE] [SILENCE] [SILENCE]  (Image from www.matthewstasoff.com)

The account gained a whopping 66,400 followers after just 36 tweets and five days. However, we are devastated to report that the account is already no more. Despite the writer's clear amusement at the goings on in the Conde Nast New York elevator, the Tweeter still 'loves their job' and so decided to stop tweeting. Devastating yes, but understandable given that the powers at Conde Nast were on the hunt for -and closing in on - the culprit.

NEWS JUST IN: Kate Bosworth is starring in Vanessa Bruno's beautiful new campaign video. I'm not sure whether Kate, the clothes or the horses are more stunning. The FashEd is a big fan of director Stefanie di Gusto.

LØV from Vanessa Bruno on Vimeo.

Have wonderful weekends and don't forget to spread the word about Fashion Editor at Large's campaign to #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome.

Share the petition on your own websites, and pass it on.

#bringMcQueenexhibitionhome

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

The Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art closed Monday night, and since then there have been articles writing about its unmitigated success.

Here are the facts in a nutshell: Between opening on May 4 and closing on August 8th, the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty attracted 661,409 visitors, ranking it alongside other major Met successes including Mona Lisa (1963) and Treasures of Tutankhamun (1978.) Demand got so huge the Museum extended the exhibition's run by a week, staying open until midnight on the last two nights.

An eight minute film narrated by Savage Beauty Curator Andrew Bolton

Thomas P. Campbell, Director and CEO of The Metropolitan Museum of Art said:  "Visitors from across the globe have come to see this remarkable exhibition, and we want to keep it open for as many people as possible. Indeed, these midnight hours will mark a fitting conclusion to this powerful exploration of McQueen's work."

This is great for the Met, for Andrew Bolton who curated Savage Beauty, for Anna Wintour who facilitated it, for the McQueen business and its CEO Jonathan Akeroyd.  It was also an achievement for everyone who contributed to or loaned to Savage Beauty, and of course for everyone who visited the exhibition.

But it is not great for anyone who was unable to get to New York to see it.

On Tuesday Imran Amed wrote on his Business of Fashion.com website that the McQueen:Savage beauty exhibition needs to travel the world. But I would like to amend that, and put it out there that the exhibition should just come home, where it belongs.

The fact remains that the exhibition should have been staged in London. It is a well known fact that most British people who have considered the matter think that the McQueen exhibition took place in New York without a forward plan to bring it to London, is a scandal.

Alexander  McQueen FW 2009

So I have humbly started a social media campaign to bring the exhibition back to the place where it belongs, where it should have been in the first place - home to London.

WHY THE MCQUEEN EXHIBITION SHOULD COME HOME

1. Lee Alexander McQueen was born and raised in London by Londoners.
2. He was educated at London's most famous art school St Martins School of Art, and trained on London's most famous tailoring street, Savile Row
3. He lived, worked and was largely inspired by London.
4. He began and made his name and career in London
5. He loved London
6. The Alexander McQueen business is based in London, and directed by an English designer.
6. British people want this

Alexander McQueen SS 1999

I've spoken to the Victoria & Albert Museum, who say "we would love to host the exhibition, we have spoken to the fashion house about it as we really want to present McQueen's work to our huge fashion and design audience here in the UK."

I've spoken to the team at McQueen who say "we have no concrete plans at present but are thrilled with the obvious appreciation of the exhibition at the Met and are waiting until the end of the exhibition before making any further decisions."

So, now its up to us.

Please comment on why you want McQueen: Savage beauty home and sign the petition.

Lets make this happen!  

Petitions by iPetitions.com | Get Widget

Tweet #bringMcQueenexhibitonhome

FW11 TRENDING: THE FORTIES

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The Miu Miu advertising campaign has primed you, hopefully. Because today, we would like to focus your trend-observant eyes on the 1940s- a decade when war ravaged the world and women came into their own, making significant contributions to the war effort whilst going to great lengths to maintain all the glamour they could; painting tea on legs to look like stockings and scrupulously collecting ration coupons so they could buy a single item of clothing.

Stocking painting (image from www.25dollarvintage.blogspot.com)

Miu Miu was the greatest proponent of the 40s look for FW11

 It was not just at off-duty moments that women were mindful of keeping up appearances. The legendary land girls toiled the fields of Britain, taking over from men who were needed to fight. Despite their demanding occupations, this was nevertheless a time when a girl could not really get away with 'bed hair' or wearing her boyfriend's shirt and denim cut-offs. Grooming was not a choice.

They may have been tending their flock, but not before the headscarf was perfectly knotted and uniform belted up (Image from www.telegraph.co.uk)

And it was not all compromise. There is abundant evidence of megawatt film star glamour, even when the war was still close to home. Vera Lynn was the sweetheart of the British Armed Forces, bringing welcome comfort and eye candy to the serving soldiers who she entertained throughout the war.

Vera Lynn wearing classic forties voluminous top with embellishment- this wouldn't look the same without the pristine make-up and set hair (Image from www.dailymail.co.uk)

 Our ultimate icon for this era is Hedy Lamarr- film star and scientist extraordinaire. Not only did Lemarr star in many of the most successful films of the 1940s, such as Samson and Deliliah, but she is also widely remembered as helping to develop a frequency hopping communication system which is still used as a basis for modern wi-fi technology. So you see, Hedy is really the epitome of the 1940s spirit which this season is capturing; power, capability, independence with a double dose of glamour.

Divine Hedy

Star Quality

Dolce and Gabbana AW11- Take note of stars as a microtrend- not confined to the 40s but if it's good enough for Coco (Chanel was a fan) AND Hedy then... 

There are two ways to go with the 1940s look for AW11. Firstly, there is total commitment. Essentially this involves adopting not just the clothing but also the beauty routine. Full adoption means not leaving the house without a full face of make-up, including the most scarlett lips and blackest flicks of eyeliner, and painstakingly styled hair.

Richard Avedon's 1948 image of Elise Daniels in Paris, in a turban.

Badgley Mischka AW11 show was full of high-glamour 30s and 40s looks. Hair and make-up was high maintainance and true to the period, but ultimately this is the boring way to do it.

Miu Miu and Jonathan Saunders did it exactly the right way by achieving that finest of balances; we can tell that their looks are 1940s but the models do not look like they are at 1940s fancy dress party. Miu Miu referenced the victory waves of 1940s hair but by keeping it straight and leaving make-up to a bare minimum, this had 2011 written all over it. Jonathan Saunders did the same but his use of colour, mostly 1940s but with the occasional flash of bright or incongruous print made his pieces apt for the Land Girls of Now.

Miu Miu's take on the tea dress is a key AW11 piece.

The belted waist and utilitarian blazer are 1940s. Prints and fresh face give the AW11 update.

Louis Vuitton

 We think you would do well to invest in two key pieces for a 1940s look. The tea dress is a classic anyway which you may quite possibly already own and certainly if you don't, will be useful for seasons to come. A turban will see you through the 70s references of the coming months as well as being a gentle reference to 40s glamour. Oh, and add a brooch if you get bored! Blazers, belts, midi skirts, palazzo pants and stacked heels are also key elements.
WE RECOMMEND:

A tea dress from Warehouse £38

Turban: £12 from ASOS

Catwalk Images from www.catwalking.com